Above: Lounge chairs on the boardwalk overlooking the bay at Amanwana

Times are changing rapidly in Indonesia. The archipelago is vast — 3,200 miles from west to east — and, as yet, most of its 17,508 tropical islands are untouched by development. But increasing numbers of intrepid Americans and Europeans are now discovering the region’s natural and cultural riches. Doubtless they are pioneers; the major hotel companies are unlikely to be far behind.

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