Above: Selection of wines at Winebar do Castelo, Lisbon, Portugal

I felt skeptical that Winebar do Castelo, recommended by the Palacete do Chafariz D’El Rei, would be worth much attention, considering its location on a touristy Alfama street just below the Castelo de São Jorge. But I was wrong. I explained to our server, the knowledgeable Rui, that we preferred to try tastes of several different wines rather than large glasses of just one or two. He happily organized an impressively broad tasting, pouring small samples of some 15 wines, accompanied by superb Portuguese cheeses and charcuterie made from local heirloom black pigs.

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