Wanting to explore more of the picturesque region around Rio de Janeiro, I asked the Travel Office to book a private tour of Sítio Roberto Burle Marx, a UNESCO World Heritage site that’s considered one of the world’s greatest gardens. Along the way, my traveling companion and I visited some of Rio’s spectacular wild beaches and toured the islands of Lagoa da Tijuca, a lagoon just west of town.

Sítio Roberto Burle Marx

About an hour from the city center, Sítio Roberto Burle Marx comprises around 100 acres of tropical plants and the home and studio of Roberto Burle Marx, a Brazilian landscape architect born in 1909. After attending art school in Rio, Burle Marx spent much of his time traveling throughout Brazil, collecting and studying plants. In the 1930s, he began his career in landscape design, and by the 1950s, he was one of the most famous landscape artists in the world. Today, his legacy lives on in gardens and parks around the world, most notably the Copacabana promenade, whose swirling black and white stones have become an emblem of the city.

In 1949, Burle Marx purchased the first tract of land that’s now part of the Sítio Roberto Burle Marx. Visitors must book a guided tour in advance to experience the magnificent gardens here. We spent over an hour exploring the lush grounds, which included thousands of tropical specimens. Instead of being confined to rigorously tidy plots, the vegetation here feels organic and natural. Outside the simple yet elegant home where he lived until his death in 1994, the massive fountain is surrounded by thick carved walls covered in bromeliads, reminiscent of part of an ancient lost city. Burle Marx was also a painter and a musician, and his chic home is filled with his collections of shells, jewelry and ceramics. At the end of the tour, a stepping-stone path led us down a jungly hillside to a pond studded with lily pads. A morning spent here is sure to delight art and design lovers.

Rio’s Remote Beaches

From the Sítio Roberto Burle Marx, our driver took us on a scenic route up and over a mountain to Praia de Grumari. At an overlook, we paused to admire the sweeping views, marveling at the vast swath of undeveloped beaches less than an hour from the heart of Rio. We stopped for a snack — ceviche and cashew-fruit caipirinhas — and a brief swim at Clássico Beach Club before continuing our drive back toward the city, hugging the coast along a scenic winding road.

Lagoa da Tijuca

One look outside your hotel room window is enough to remind you of Rio’s tropical beauty. Yet our next stop was still surprising. Behind a shopping mall in suburban Barra da Tijuca, we boarded a private boat for a tour of Lagoa da Tijuca, a vast coastal lagoon dotted with islands. Some are inhabited by Cariocas, who commute to work via boat, while other islands are completely wild, populated only by caimans. As we cruised through mangrove tunnels, we spotted the sly reptiles lurking in the water. Luckily, we also happened upon some adorably goofy capybaras, looking like overgrown guinea pigs as they happily munched plants, oblivious to their sinister-looking neighbors. (Capybaras are too large to be prey for the caimans.)

We concluded our excursion with a meal at Ocyá, a stylish seafood restaurant on one of the islands (read our review here). After a languorous lunch, our boat captain took us back to the mainland. To avoid getting stuck in evening traffic, our guide suggested returning to Copacabana on the Metrô. In less than an hour, we went from untamed wilderness to the posh Copacabana Palace.

Further Explorations

Those wanting to experience more of Rio’s natural spaces can also plan a guided visit to the Rio de Janeiro Botanical Garden, including a stop for refreshments at the absurdly picturesque Parque Lage courtyard, with views of Christ the Redeemer. Or consider a hike to one of the breathtaking viewpoints in Tijuca National Park. Trails range from intermediate to grueling, and we recommend always using a guide.

Get to know more of Burle Marx’s work by visiting Flamengo Park, which runs alongside Guanabara Bay near the Museum of Modern Art. The Travel Office can arrange bike tours through the 296-acre expanse, which is home to more than 240 species of trees.