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The United States is such a large and gloriously scenic nation that devoting some time to domestic explorations is hardly a sacrifice. For our first editorial foray after the pandemic began, we headed to one of America’s most spectacular regions, the Rockies.
One might not ordinarily think of combining Park City, Utah, and Jackson Hole, Wyoming, but the pair makes a fine combination in summer, early fall or ski season. We took advantage of the warm, clear weather to hike, bike and dine on panoramic patios, but I would love to re-create our journey in winter to hit the slopes and indulge in après ski.
This itinerary follows more or less in my footsteps, substituting recommended hotels where the new properties I tested didn’t quite work out. In spite of a couple of disappointing hotels, we were once again seduced by the scenic grandeur of the West, where the clean air and open spaces felt like the perfect antidote.
We flew into Salt Lake City’s compact airport, rented a car (the rental desks and parking structure are across the street from the terminal; no shuttle is required to reach them) and drove about 45 minutes to Deer Valley.
Instead of checking into the Washington School House Hotel in downtown Park City, where I discovered that the soundproofing and room size left something to be desired, consider one of our longtime recommendations: Stein Eriksen Lodge or St. Regis Deer Valley. Either one would make a fine base for exploring the area in whatever season you’re visiting.
Stein Eriksen Lodge is a property located mid-mountain at 8,200 feet in the Deer Valley Resort’s Silver Lake Village above Park City.
View Hotel ListingSpend at least two full days enjoying Deer Valley and its environs. Take a stroll in historic Park City, a former mining town that has been revitalized into a stylish ski town. We had fun strolling Main Street, home to the surprisingly diverting Park City Museum, and we had a tasty lunch (paired with delicious craft cocktails) at the High West Distillery’s saloon. Ski lifts whisk people up the mountainside from the edge of downtown, and should you happen to visit in late January, you can attend a screening or two during the Sundance Film Festival.
Hiking trails start on the edge of downtown Park City as well, offering panoramic views over the valley. We also had a splendid time hiking the popular Bloods Lake trail — named for a former governor of Utah — which opened into sweeping views of the mountains in between copses of pines and aspens (read more about our hiking experiences).
Stein Eriksen Lodge is a property located mid-mountain at 8,200 feet in the Deer Valley Resort’s Silver Lake Village above Park City.
View Hotel ListingDepart Park City after breakfast and drive about five hours north to Jackson Hole, the broad valley that’s home to the towns of Jackson and Teton Village. We tried two different routes between the destinations, and in either case, appealing restaurants were few and far between. I suggest having a big breakfast or asking your hotel to pack a to-go lunch for you to eat along the way. A five-hour drive sounds long, but the impressive scenery makes it pass quickly.
We took US-89 north. Eventually, vast Wyoming plains bracketed by distant mountain ranges gave way to the steep and sinuous Snake River Valley. We paused at a pullout, surrounded by blazing yellow wildflowers, to watch groups of rafters paddle down the sky-blue water.
Families should consider the exclusive Caldera House in Teton Village, which has four two-bedroom apartments and four with four bedrooms. Note that bedrooms within the apartments are not created equal, making them less well-suited to couples traveling together. Its location adjacent to the Aerial Tram is ideal for skiers, and its Members Lounge surely has the best après-ski scene in Jackson Hole. Farther north than the town of Jackson, Teton Village is also perfectly located for excursions into Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. The Four Seasons in Teton Village is a good alternative for couples seeking a location similar to the Caldera House.
Jackson is larger and older than Teton Village, and it is more of a real town, rather than an agglomeration of hotels and restaurants at the base of several ski lifts. Plus, Jackson has its own ski slope. Its main square offers Western character aplenty, with elk-antler arches and the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. It’s also a fine base for visiting Grand Teton and Yellowstone, the surprisingly excellent National Museum of Wildlife Art is just outside of town, and it has a wider range of shopping and dining options than Teton Village. The downtown Hotel Jackson has its advantages, but with rates as high as those of Amangani, which is just a short drive out of the city, I can’t imagine why one wouldn’t stay in the latter. It remains my top recommendation near Jackson.
Amangani is fifteen minutes from downtown Jackson. This stylish resort with 40 rooms is set atop the 7,000-foot East Gros Ventre Butte.
View Hotel ListingI’m suggesting three full days, but really, it wouldn’t be difficult to fill three weeks exploring the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, an immense multistate region (including Grand Teton National Park) that encompasses one of the largest temperate environments that still remains largely intact. Both summer and winter are fine times to visit, depending on the activities you enjoy.
Take at least one full day in Grand Teton National Park. The hiking there is sensational but popular. Start as early in the day as possible, especially if you plan on visiting top sites like Jenny Lake. We also enjoyed a half-day excursion with Jackson Hole Wildlife Safaris, during which we saw bison and grizzly bears (see more about our tour).
Yellowstone National Park is a bit farther north, and it merits as much time as you can afford. Note that the park can suffer from overtourism in the peak summer season, making it wiser to visit in early autumn, after school starts, or in winter, when the thermal features emerge from the snow in dramatic fashion.
Even if you have visited both Grand Teton and Yellowstone before, they merit considering again. These national parks are so large and varied, and the experience of visiting them changes so much depending on the season, it would be easy to plan an itinerary quite different from your first visit.
Amangani is fifteen minutes from downtown Jackson. This stylish resort with 40 rooms is set atop the 7,000-foot East Gros Ventre Butte.
View Hotel ListingIf you have only a week to spare, head to the Jackson Hole airport, return your rental car and fly home. But if you can take two or three more days, turn back south, this time driving along US-189 to one of my favorite properties in the Rockies, The Lodge at Blue Sky, managed by Auberge Resorts.
After you arrive, you’ll likely want to relax in your spacious room and enjoy the magnificent views, or perhaps venture down to the terrace of the bar for a cocktail before dinner.
The hilly terrain of the remarkable Lodge at Blue Sky ranch-resort, a 30-minute drive from Park City, assures tranquility.
View Hotel ListingThis 3,500-acre ranch outside Park City is an ideal way to end a vacation, with its plush accommodations, friendly and professional service, excellent restaurant and myriad activities. The world-class stables are home to pampered rescue horses, and numerous scenic hiking trails lace the property. Trout-filled streams beckon fly-fishermen; Creek Houses come with rods for fishing right outside one’s deck. A sporting center offers activities like clay pigeon-shooting, and its helicopter can take guests on heli-hiking and heli-skiing adventures (on-property skiing and snowshoeing are also available).
If you visit in summer, as we did, I recommend a hike up to the Tavern, a converted 19th-century schoolhouse, where the staff can arrange for a picnic in a mountain meadow. Those with any interest in horseback riding should consider a horsemanship lesson, conducted in a new arena. Learning more about the theory of communicating with a horse improved my riding immediately. And relaxing by the infinity pool or the smaller spa pool, ideally with a glass of wine or a cup of restorative tea, is always a good idea.
The hilly terrain of the remarkable Lodge at Blue Sky ranch-resort, a 30-minute drive from Park City, assures tranquility.
View Hotel ListingAfter one more delicious breakfast — allow yourself a homemade pastry or two — drive back to Salt Lake City. Return your rental car and fly home.
This is a sample itinerary designed to inspire your travels. Price listed is based on two people sharing, except where noted. Flights are not included. Room categories, dates of travel and change to services may affect the starting price. Contact the Andrew Harper Travel Office to customize this journey to fit your needs.