Travelers to Belgium tend to focus on Brussels, the capital, and Bruges, a canal-laced jewel box of medieval architecture. Many people pass by delightful Ghent, located between them, where I based myself on my most recent trip to the country. My European trips have been increasingly focused on these quieter places, which haven’t been disrupted or overwhelmed by tourism.

This trip is best undertaken in spring or fall, but even winter can be quite fun, since all three cities have more than their share of fine museums and cozy beer bars.

If this itinerary has too many hotel changes for your taste, you could base yourself entirely in Ghent and visit Bruges and Brussels on day trips. Each is just half an hour away by train.