Today, the scenic beauty of Transylvania, a vast green province in the heart of Romania, remains as miraculously unblemished as when I first glimpsed it nearly 30 years ago. Shadowy forests gave way to neatly tilled fields, meadows dotted with grazing cows, orchards bright with red apples and wildflower pastures that reminded me of the intricate prettiness of medieval embroidery. Perched on hilltops were villages of pastel-painted houses and fortified white-walled churches. The landscapes are every bit as enchanting as those of Tuscany or Provence. What has changed, however, is that this undiscovered corner of Europe now has a number of charming guesthouses, along with some very good restaurants.

Transylvania is a destination for the travel connoisseur. It is a place to spend time amid some of the last preindustrial landscapes in Europe, as well as to discover Romanian culture, history, food and crafts. There are few places like it left, which is doubtless why it has won over such discerning travelers as Britain’s King Charles, who loves the region so much he owns several properties there, including one you can rent.

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