This British Overseas Territory remains a low-key place, with narrow roads and few large buildings. A tranquil speck in the Leeward Islands, 35-square-mile Anguilla is home to about 16,000 people. The landscape is flat and scrubby, but the sea is a luminous turquoise, and the white-sand beaches are among the best in the Caribbean. Both a magnet and an incubator for culinary talent, Anguilla boasts a number of excellent restaurants. Most visitors arrive by private boat from St. Martin (20 to 35 minutes). For the more adventurous, there are also entertaining public ferries. Direct flights are available year-round from Miami and San Juan, Puerto Rico, and seasonally from Baltimore, Newark and Boston.