Athens is not always an easy city to love, especially in the summer, when it is often crowded, smoggy and infernally hot. But in spring and fall, the place has many charms: classic Greek tavernas, cutting-edge galleries, hip wine bars and a near-endless supply of ancient sites and treasures. The Acropolis is the city’s most iconic attraction, and the old quarter below, Plaka, tends to fill with tourists. Kolonaki is the Greek capital’s most fashionable residential, restaurant and shopping district. From Kolonaki, a funicular rises to the 900-foot summit of Mount Lycabettus — there is also a footpath for those in need of exercise — from where a glorious panorama includes the Parthenon and the glinting waters of the Mediterranean. At sunset, crowds gather on Areopagus Hill, below the Acropolis, to see the city bathed in gold. We also enjoy going down to Piraeus, the port of Athens, to watch the ferries heading off to the Greek islands or to admire the superyachts. Several tavernas serve excellent fish and seafood, especially those fronting the Mikrolimano, the small port adjacent to the Kastella neighborhood.