Trips to East Africa invariably begin and end in Nairobi, which, alas, is now such a dangerous and congested city that upscale leisure travelers have fled. The best bet is to stay in the suburb of Karen, where there are properties with pleasant gardens surrounded by reassuring festoons of razor wire. On a sunny day, with a view of the Ngong Hills, the setting can be idyllic. And whichever hotel you choose, consider visiting the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust during your stay. To date, the trust has raised more than 300 orphaned elephants and reintroduced some into the wild that have gone on to have babies of their own.

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