One of the great pleasures of a trip to Greece is enjoying the abundance of tavernas: casual, old-school spots with classic dishes like mouthwatering souvlaki, rich moussaka and crispy zucchini fritters. And while Athens has its fair share of such haunts (we love Palio Tetradio, for example, on the steps leading up to Anafiotika), my favorite menus in the city are not hemmed in by tradition.

Over several meals, I encountered restaurants that are using Greek ingredients and recipes in new ways — from a hip wine bar to one of the city’s most acclaimed addresses for fine dining. Though tavernas still anchor the city’s culinary identity, more-contemporary eateries are taking the spotlight.

Linou Soumpasis
» Simple yet spectacular dishes in a minimalist-chic setting

Our waiter at Pharaoh (see below) recommended this laid-back neighborhood spot in Psyri, and it’s easy to see why. Tables spill from the pared-down dining room onto the sidewalk, populated by a stylish crowd of locals and tourists. We opted for seats outside, which made for great people-watching. We also felt quite pleased with ourselves for making a reservation, as we saw dozens of people get turned away at the door. The menu may be simple, but the dishes are spectacular. Most memorable was the luxuriously buttery tuna, served raw and dressed only with olive oil and lemon. Next came a towering mound of grilled string beans, at once fresh and smoky, along with flaky cod served atop an umami-rich tomato-and-okra stew. We paired the meal with a versatile citrus-forward Assyrtiko, a favorite white from Santorini. Unfortunately, service here struggled to keep pace with the kitchen. But if you’re in town for a few nights and don’t mind flagging down a waiter to order, you’ll be well rewarded by Greek comfort food executed with deft restraint.

Linou Soumpasis
Melanthiou 2. Tel. (30) 210-322-0300

Pharaoh
» Natural wines and wood-fired cooking in a hip warehouse space

In a warehouselike space in gritty Exarcheia, Pharaoh stands out as a creative wine bar. We reserved seats at the counter, behind which soared floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with natural wines, vinyl records, firewood for the grill and an assortment of eccentric decorative objects. A friendly waiter walked us through the menu and suggested starting with glasses of a Greek pét-nat, a delightful Chardonnay with an appealing saline undertone and plush finish. Considering the edgy space, the menu leans more traditional than you might expect, but I appreciated the bold flavors. We started with dolmades, which arrived drizzled with olive oil and flaky sea salt. The warm melt-in-your-mouth morsels had blistered leaves that lightly crackled. For the main course, I opted for the meatballs — delectably charred and packed with herbs — served alongside a medley of grilled vegetables. I happily made use of the feta dip and slightly spicy paprika spread. Paired with a light but structured Liatiko from Rethymno, Crete, it was a deliciously satisfying meal that left, alas, no room for dessert.

Pharaoh
Solomou 54. Tel. (30) 210-380-8412

Spondi
» A romantic fine-dining spot with Greek ingredients and global influences

Hidden in upscale Pangrati, Spondi is a romantic fine-dining destination worthy of a special occasion. In  the quiet courtyard, we opted to order à la carte instead of going for a six- or eight-course tasting menu. After an elaborate bread presentation and amuse-bouches, things started in earnest with the brown crab, served chilled and topped with a tomato sorbet, tiny crab-shaped crackers and dollops of grapefruit-and-verbena sauce that made each bite a sublime exchange of sweet and acid. Next came the lamb, a flawlessly cooked chop served with thinly sliced kohlrabi and a nest of sesame noodles atop a wild garlic-and-miso glaze dotted with yogurt. Each exquisite dish used elements of traditional Greek cuisine — lamb, yogurt and sesame, for instance — in luxuriously creative ways. The wine list has fantastic options from all over Greece. I was especially thrilled to try a creamy, refreshing sparkler from northern Greece made with Xinomavro and Assyrtiko. Spondi is a reminder that Athens’ modern culinary identity is as polished and elegant as any in Europe.

Spondi
Pyrronos 5. Tel. (30) 210-756-4021