Inevitably, on a visit to Athens, you’ll find yourself in Plaka at some point. Set beneath the Acropolis, it’s Athens’ oldest neighborhood. On a bad day, the winding, narrow streets can feel like a sweltering maze of tchotchke vendors, overpriced cafés and touts. But if you look past the tourists and the tat, there’s plenty of charm to be discovered. Here, we reveal delightful shops, restaurants, bars and more hidden in plain sight.

What to See and Do

The reason Plaka has the most crowded streets in Athens is its proximity to the city’s most famous landmarks: the Parthenon, the Roman Forum and the Theatre of Dionysus, to name a few. But once you’ve had your fill of ancient Greek history, there’s still a reason to stick around.

In the late afternoon, climb up to Anafiotika, a tiny neighborhood that feels straight out of the Greek islands, with narrow walkways that wind between whitewashed buildings. Stop to visit Agios Georgios tou Vrachou (St. George of the Rock) before walking to Areopagus Hill, where you’ll have sweeping views of the city and the Acropolis. It’s an especially popular place to watch the sunset, so expect crowds.

For those interested in contemporary art, the Travel Office can arrange a private visit of Arch Athens, an artist residency and gallery with a free public library of art books and exhibition catalogs from around the world. (Read more about contemporary art in Athens here.)

In warmer months, Cine Paris hosts open-air film screenings on an Acropolis-view rooftop in the evenings. Check the schedule for movies in English or with English subtitles.

Where to Shop

A seemingly endless array of storefronts sell jewelry, linen, leather goods and olive oil-based products. But I prefer to skip the souvenir shops and head straight for Mouki Mou, an incredibly stylish store that’s intentionally hard to find. The boutique offers a selection of creative Greek-made home goods, as well as a collection of high-end women’s clothing and accessories sourced from designers around the world.

One not-so-hidden treasure is the Loom, a shop overflowing with carpets, tapestries and pillows, including fluffy flokati rugs. (Don’t worry about space in your suitcase — they ship internationally.)

Where to Eat

My favorite Athens restaurants are outside Plaka, but even this culinary desert has its oases. On hot summer days, it’s essential to make frequent breaks for snacks or drinks. The cafés in Filomousou Eterias Square are pleasant enough places for a quick bite, but avoid any restaurant where the maître d’ stands in front trying to beckon customers inside.

In the evenings, head to the tavernas situated on the Mnisikleous Stairs leading to Anafiotika. There’s a kitschy charm to the restaurants, some of which feature traditional music and dancing. Palio Tetradio and Geros Tou Moria are both worthwhile for their hearty traditional food. They surely won’t serve the best meal you’ll have in Greece, but they’re great fun.

Where to Drink

Brettos is my favorite spot for an afternoon refreshment. As the oldest distillery in Athens, it makes its own ouzo, tsipouro, rakomelo and brandy, as well as dozens of liqueurs, which are creatively displayed behind the attractive bar. But I come here for the wine. With more than 160 Greek bottlings available by the glass, it’s an ideal — and extremely affordable — place to learn about the country’s many wonderful indigenous grapes.

After dinner, I like to relax at one of the rooftop bars dotting the neighborhood. Mostrou is an otherwise unexceptional restaurant, but up the stairs in the back is an appealing roof garden. With views of the illuminated Acropolis, it’s an utterly enchanting place for a nightcap.