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Because we travel to the most fascinating and beautiful places in the world, it’s the rare editorial trip that doesn’t leave us with an unforgettable moment or three. Indelible memories often happen unexpectedly, but they’re usually a result of planning: putting ourselves in the right place at the right time (our advisors in the Travel Office are often helpful in that regard). These reminiscences below represent just a few of our favorites from the past year.
The draw of a Sea of Cortez sailing with Uncruise is undoubtedly the extraordinary natural setting. We explored dramatic landscapes and ventured on underwater adventures without ever seeing another cruise ship. But the unsung appeal of a destination this remote is the clear night sky. On our final evening aboard the Safari Voyager, we watched as the full moon rose from the sea at sunset. Later that night, about a dozen of us stayed up late to watch the lunar eclipse. On the top deck of the ship, we sipped mezcal old-fashioneds and told stories. As the full moon dimmed to a pale pink, constellations illuminated a dazzling night sky streaked with shooting stars. I tried to make a wish, but in that moment, I couldn’t think of a single thing I would change.
Read more about our sailing with Uncruise »
On my recent trip to Rio, I had excellent luck with the weather. I took advantage of one sunny Saturday afternoon by going kiosk-hopping in Ipanema and Copacabana. Not all beach kiosks are created equal: They range from simple counters with no seating to snazzy outdoor bar-restaurants. We walked almost the full length of the Roberto Burle Marx-designed promenade, stopping for to-go caipirinhas when our cups ran empty. As the light faded, vendors set up their stalls along the Avenida Atlantica and the music got louder. We danced at Quiosque Samba Social Clube, stopped for ceviche and fried fish at Clássico, and ended the evening at Mureta do Leme, the last stop along the beach, where all of Copacabana shimmered behind us.
Read more about Rio de Janeiro »
While traveling, I try to visit as many UNESCO World Heritage sites as I can. In Tangier, I discovered there was one nearby: the Medina of Tétouan, in a coastal town just over an hour away. The Travel Office arranged a private guided tour of the Andalusian village, with roots dating back more than two millennia. We wandered the alleyways and streets as our guide explained the history of the city, once home to Morocco’s largest Jewish community (most fled in the mid-20th century). Curious locals gave us quizzical looks as we perused the open-air food market, buying a few sardines for a litter of kittens. Afterward, we ducked through a maze of leather shops to reach the tannery, which looked like something out of the Middle Ages. At the end of our tour, we stopped for tea in a bustling café and reflected on the timelessness of this incredibly atmospheric — and completely untouristed — maze of streets. It’s a comfort to know places like this still exist.
Hitting the links in Scotland is always exciting, but our round at this Old Tom Morris-designed course really delivered it all: difficulty, splendid views, fascinating landmarks and smooth whisky provided by colorful caddies. During play, we experienced everything from gorgeous sunshine to sobering winds to a brief soaking rain. Most holes looked out over the glimmering North Sea and some stretched along beautiful beaches; an abundance of fescue framed them all. On a bluff in the distance stood Slains Castle, said to be the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s “Count Dracula.” One green was guarded by a stream nicknamed the “Bluidy Burn” because the Scots and the Danes battled there in 1012. Each hole presented a unique challenge, whether it was an elevated green, a (very) deep sand trap or an unforgiving fairway. It was a day of challenge and joy, and I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
Read more about our Scottish golf cruise »
Of the four artisan studios I visited in Florence, the Profumoir perfume workshop stands apart. In a lavish space decorated with delicate glass decanters of natural essences, Orientalist antiques and vintage velvet sofas, the centerpiece is the “olfactory organ,” a collection of nearly 200 bottles of raw and blended essences. Unlike at other ateliers, my experience here was fully hands-on. Saeedeh, my scent specialist, had me close my eyes and smell about 30 of the unnamed bottles; she selected each one based on my instinctive reaction to the last. After narrowing down the options to four scents, we put them together. I adjusted the ratios until I was satisfied with my creation. My immersive experience at Profumoir left me with a profound appreciation for the art of perfumery and an elegantly bottled personalized fragrance to take home.
Read more about top artisan workshop tours in Florence »
I hadn’t realized that Umbria was home to such a distinguished artisanal cashmere industry until our Travel Office arranged a private tour of two extraordinary producers, both of which knit and stitch garments by hand. At the workshop of Brunello Cucinelli, the “King of Cashmere,” I watched artisans transform jewel-toned spools into garments of exquisite craftsmanship, each movement deliberate and precise. But at Tasselli, a little-known family-run shop, I got to work with cashmere myself, trying my hand at repairing snags under the guidance of an expert seamstress. I still don’t quite trust my eye to be sharp enough or my hand steady enough to attempt cashmere repairs myself back home, but the morning was a delight, capped with lunch at a gorgeous winery nearby.
Read more about our cashmere tour »
We checked into our room at The Oberoi Amarvilas in the late afternoon. Rather than unpack, we went immediately to our balcony. In the middle distance, above a grove of misty trees, rose the white domes and minarets of the Taj Mahal. We’ve all seen the monument in innumerable photos, but still, even for this professional traveler, standing before it in person is breathtaking. And as a professional traveler, I knew exactly what to do: I phoned room service. A butler arrived a few minutes later bearing flutes of (surprisingly good) Indian sparkling wine. We sat down on our balcony and sipped them as the sun sank to our left. Meanwhile, just to our right, a group of musicians assembled on the rooftop of a pavilion behind the Amarvilas’ swimming pool. Dancers in jewel-toned dresses twirled to the music as the last light of the day glowed on the Taj Mahal’s curvaceous marble form. Sublime.
Read more about Agra and India’s Golden Triangle »
I’d expected to see only the exterior of the late-18th-century Chattar Manzil. Once the palace of the Nawabs of Awadh, it had been converted into a drug research institute and now stood abandoned. As we peeked inside broken windows, our guide said, “Oh, we can go in if you like.” And he led us right through the front door. Inside, we discovered broken test tubes and flasks, moldering old doors and, beyond a checkerboard-tiled lobby, an ornate theater. A shaft of sunlight from a vent in the ceiling barely illuminated the space. It still had wood-paneled walls topped by green scalloped arches, the largest of which formed the proscenium over the stage. Our feet crunched broken glass and bits of plaster as we roamed the eerily silent hall, which once glittered with Lucknow society. Note: I don’t recommend trespassing like this. It’s potentially dangerous, probably illegal and unquestionably a thrill.
The exhilarating high others might feel on top of K2, I find riding horses in an Icelandic river, walking elephants through the forest in Thailand or romping through high grass with a hotel’s black Lab at the end of a lead. In New Zealand, I had another such animal experience during my farm tour at Flockhill, a 36,000-acre property on the South Island. But it wasn’t the sheepherding dogs that made me swoon. It was a wee orphan lamb that our guide gently placed in my arms. Hungry for a bottle, this soft, downy 1-month-old nibbled my chin and tucked its nose into the crook of my neck. I didn’t have just a dopamine rush — there was a surge of pure love.
Read more about our stay at Flockhill »