If you take a walk around the posh neighborhoods of Rio, you’ll notice a theme. Many of the popular high-end restaurants in the city serve either Italian, sushi or steaks. But travelers who seek out local cuisine will be well rewarded. Brazilian fare is complex and drastically underappreciated. This fusion of Latin American, African and European influences takes advantage of the country’s tropical bounty in fresh and ambitious dishes that are also somehow familiar and comforting. On this trip, I savored flawless seafood and delectable vegetables at uniquely Brazilian eateries, including a seafood spot accessible only by boat and an acclaimed fine-dining restaurant.

Bar e Restaurante Urca
» Harbor views, unfussy food and excellent people-watching

On this venue’s first floor is a takeout counter that’s open to the sidewalk. Patrons order beers and empanadas and bring them across the street to sit on the seawall overlooking the harbor. Upstairs is a casual sit-down restaurant that’s crowded with businessmen, local hipsters and in-the-know visitors. We were shown to a table under a large window, where we sat side by side with our backs to the restaurant, taking in the water views and people-watching. Food here is simply prepared yet excellent. I had a succulent fried fish fillet accompanied by herbed rice, while my dining companion opted for a vegan version of Bahian bobó stew: puréed yuca with hearts of palm and cashews. Ice-cold beers were the perfect pairing. Those who have overindulged in Brazil’s famous steak will appreciate the heaping salads that come with a rainbow of vegetables practically toppling off the plate. Traveling to this off-the-beaten-path spot is well worth the trouble, especially if you pair it with a visit to nearby Sugarloaf Mountain for a bird’s-eye panorama of the city. Plan for lunch or an early-evening meal, during which you can enjoy the views and atmosphere of the quiet neighborhood.

Bar e Restaurante Urca
Rua Cândido Gaffrée 205. Tel. (55) 21-2295-8744