Itinerary Highlights

  • Visit Shelburne Museum and Shelburne Farms
  • Shop at the flagship Simon Pearce store
  • Browse Woodstock's Market on the Green
  • Tour the Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller Mansion
  • Spend a morning at Billings Farm
  • Enjoy local beer and cider at popular taprooms
  • Hike in the Northeast Kingdom area of Vermont

Follow in Our Footsteps

Editor’s Itinerary

Vermont
Duration: 9 Days
Vermont is a land of small towns, many of them the embodiment of an idealized New England. Everywhere we journeyed on our drive through the state, we saw evidence of robust industry and ingenuity — those hallmarks of Yankee culture — in the surprising number of craft shops, artist studios, galleries, artisanal-cheese producers, stylish restaurants and furniture makers we came across. Vermont also has a varied topography that includes pastoral vistas, forested hills and mountain slopes that offer the East’s best skiing. Here is a nine-day itinerary for those who might want to follow in our footsteps.
Day 1

Burlington to Warren

Pick up a rental car at Burlington International Airport and set off on a counterclockwise route around the state. Due south, the town of Shelburne (7 miles) is home to Shelburne Farms, on the banks of Lake Champlain, and Shelburne Museum. Either of these can take half a day to explore. The former provides opportunities for hiking, walking and farm visits, while the rich, varied holdings of the 45-acre museum concentrate on American crafts, art, furniture and folk art. The actual buildings themselves — a covered bridge, a blacksmith shop, a one-room schoolhouse, the Ticonderoga steamboat, a general store and 34 others — are representative of regional styles from days gone by. If you have more time, there are several retail establishments in town, including Mysa, a high-end women’s boutique; the Flying Pig Bookstore; the Shelburne Country Store; and the Champlain Valley Antique Center.

On your way to Warren, stop in the little town of Vergennes, the oldest and smallest city in Vermont. Its historic downtown features plenty of shops (the sophisticated Malabar is a favorite) and restaurants (try Vergennes Laundry for lunch). Be sure to stop at Vergennes Falls Park to see the dramatic waterfalls cascading into Otter Creek.

Continue to Warren and check in at The Pitcher Inn.

Stay Overnight

The Pitcher Inn

The Pitcher Inn is set beside a rushing stream in Warren, a quaint village near Sugarbush.

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Day 2-3

Warren

Stay at The Pitcher Inn, a property that we have recommended highly for many years. A dinner at 275 Main, the inn’s fine-dining room, is invariably a memorable experience, as is having a drink in the gardens above the creek.

If at all possible (and with the season allowing), schedule your trip so that you can visit the Saturday farmers market in Waitsfield (9 miles). There, you can enjoy the lively atmosphere and sample some of the fine local products, which include cheese from the von Trapp Farmstead and spirits from the distilleries of Mad River, Caledonia and Stonecutter. Stop by the taproom at Lawson’s Finest Liquids to sample its collection of beers, including its flagship IPA, Sip of Sunshine. Look in on some of the charming local shops that feature the art and handicrafts of Vermont (Addison West on Main Street is lovely, for instance). You might want to stay in town for a simple Italian-style dinner at the rustic Peasant, or head back to Warren to shop at the distinctive Warren Store, and then cross the street back to The Pitcher Inn for a casual meal in the tavern, Tracks.

Stay Overnight

The Pitcher Inn

The Pitcher Inn is set beside a rushing stream in Warren, a quaint village near Sugarbush.

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Day 4-5

Quechee and Woodstock

Head southeast to the village of Woodstock (50 miles). On the way, visit the town of Quechee and the workshops, retail outlet and riverside restaurant of the renowned artisanal glassmaker Simon Pearce. The restaurant serves fine casual fare with a view of the Ottauquechee River and a quaint covered bridge. If you like antiques, visit the Antiques Collaborative, with over 165 dealers.

Spend the night at the Woodstock Inn & Resort, a landmark hotel that stands on the green of a town often cited as one of the prettiest in the United States. Much of this is due to the Rockefellers, who built the inn and also played a key role in preserving many of the town’s historic structures. The inn offers four dining options, a Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed golf course, tennis courts, pools, a gym and a spa. Falconry workshops are also quite popular.

Enjoy strolling around the beautiful town and exploring its many independent shops. If you are there on a Wednesday between June and October, the Market on the Green, in front of the hotel, is a great way to meet the local artists, brewmasters and cheesemakers selling their wares. Guests of the hotel gain free entry to Billings Farm & Museum, a working dairy farm, and a tour of the Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller Mansion, which is across the street, is highly recommended as well (reservations required).

Alternatively, you may decide to stay at Twin Farms, a lavish rural retreat located 9 miles north of Woodstock amid meadows and woodlands in an unspoiled valley. Twin Farms is justly regarded as one of the finest hideaways in the country, and guests choose from 20 distinctive lodgings. The restaurant is exceptional; other facilities include a spa, a gym and Japanese-style soaking tubs.

Stay Overnight

Woodstock Inn & Resort

The landmark Woodstock Inn & Resort faces the village green in the beautifully preserved town of Woodstock, beloved by Laurance and Mary Rockefeller.

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Day 6-7

Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom

Heading farther north, make for Burke (90 miles), in Vermont’s beautiful Northeast Kingdom, bordered by the Green Mountains and the Connecticut River. Break up a drive by stopping at the King Arthur Baking Company. Founded in 1790, it’s a great place to have breakfast, lunch or a coffee and to browse the store.

Check into The Inn at Burklyn, a Colonial Revival mansion built in 1908 for New York hotelier Elmer Darling. After getting settled, make the most of the inn’s hilltop position by having a sundowner on the wide porch and taking in the breathtaking views of pastoral countryside. Have dinner at the inn. This is a perfect base for mountain biking, hiking or skiing. Be sure to explore the property, tour the gardens and walk the trails. If you want a longer hike, drive 11 miles north to Lake Willoughby, the deepest lake in Vermont, and take a side trip to Sentinel Rock for spectacular views. For something indoors, visit the Fairbanks Museum & Planetarium, in St. Johnsbury, about 20 minutes south. This natural history museum houses 30,000 eclectic objects, including 19th-century bug art and a Victorian collection of oddities that “balance science and wonder.” Stay in town to have a casual meal at the Kingdom Taproom and Table or have dinner at the inn.

Stay Overnight

The Inn at Burklyn

Built as a private home in 1908 for New York hotelier Elmer Darling, The Inn at Burklyn is a Colonial Revival mansion on the National Register of Historic Places.

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Day 8-9

Burlington

Head to Burlington for a late-afternoon stroll and some shopping, and then have dinner at the congenial Hen of the Wood restaurant. Thus fortified, prepare for the next day’s journey home.