Although British Columbia and Vancouver still have Byzantine and counterproductive liquor laws, they recently relaxed enough to allow craft distilleries to start opening in the city. I visited four and sampled some absolutely delicious spirits. Gin is a particular specialty of the city.

Long Table Distillery

My favorite Vancouver distillery endures an extra measure of taxes because it uses an imported neutral grain spirit to craft its gin (taxes are much lower on distilleries using exclusively British Columbian raw materials). But Long Table refuses to compromise on quality, and its smooth, subtle London Dry Gin is the best in Vancouver. I also enjoyed the fresh and round Cucumber Gin, the complex and woody Bourbon Barrel Aged Gin and the well-balanced Långbord Akvavit, redolent of caraway and citrus. The gregarious owner, Charles Tremewen, also took us into the back to show us how his new rum is developing.

Long Table Distillery
1451 Hornby Street. Tel. (604) 266-0177