Despite the proliferation of fast food and an increasing number of supermarkets supplied by agribusiness, Rome still boasts innumerable trattorias and restaurants, many family-owned, serving excellent traditional cooking. The Lazio countryside has rich soil and a benign climate. As a result, the fruits and vegetables are among the best in the world. Certainly a morning visit to the Campo de’ Fiori market, with its kaleidoscopic displays, provides ample confirmation. Rome is also close to the sea, so the fish is excellent.

Food experts and writers wrangle over which Italian dishes are authentically Roman, but the city’s partisan inhabitants make claims on fettuccine Alfredo, penne all’arrabbiata, spaghetti alla carbonara, bucatini all’Amatriciana, stracciatella (egg drop soup), saltimbocca alla Romana (veal topped with prosciutto and sage), abbacchio alla Romana (grilled suckling lamb) and roasted stuffed porchetta. Here are three restaurants that I enjoyed on my recent trip.

Per Me - Giulio Terrinoni

This elegant and intimate establishment showcases the exceptional cooking of Michelin one-star chef Giulio Terrinoni. Since it opened in 2015, Per Me has acquired a reputation for serving some of the best seafood in Rome (though the meat dishes are equally outstanding). My roasted cuttlefish with zucchini flowers, mint oil and saffron was delicious, as was the spaghettone with clams, and the cod with basil pil-pil, marinated fruits and eggplant sorbet. A fascinating 200-label wine list assembled by sommelier Giulio Bruni features bottles from around the world, as well as selections from all the principal Italian wine regions.