Thanks to its secluded location at the tip of the island of Giudecca, the Belmond Hotel Cipriani has long offered a refuge from the teeming crowds of the Piazza San Marco and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Until now, the Cipriani has had few, if any, competitors. Its only potential rival was the San Clemente Palace, located on a 17-acre private island, farther out into the Venetian Lagoon, 15 minutes by speedboat from San Marco. I stayed there a few years ago, and overall, I came away unimpressed. Set next to the 12th-century Church of San Clemente, the main building had originally housed a community of monks. Back then, the corridors were spartan and echoing, and the gardens were not especially well-maintained. However, it was possible to see what the place could become, given sufficient investment. I was therefore very interested to learn in late 2015 that the hotel had been acquired by the Kempinski hotel group (headquartered in Geneva).

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

On my recent trip, I decided to give the place a second chance. The transformation is astonishing. Nowadays at the reinvented San Clemente Palace Kempinski, the gardens are immaculate, the public areas are sumptuous and the 190 exceptionally spacious accommodations come with high ceilings, fabric-covered walls, stylish contemporary furnishings, Murano chandeliers and lavish marble baths. Aside from a magnificent 65-foot pool, the property offers tennis courts, three holes of pitch-and-putt golf, an impressive spa and a kids’ club. (If you are traveling with young children, this is undoubtedly the best place in Venice to stay). Three restaurants include Acquerello, which has a huge and glamorous terrace beneath the church façade. I sat outside in the sunshine to enjoy the exceptional Sunday lunchtime buffet. The food was delicious, the service was polished and the view of Venice in the distance was sublime. The Cipriani now officially has a rival.

- Hotel at a Glance -