Many top Dordogne and Lot restaurants open only between April and October, but even though we visited southwest France outside those months, we dined exceedingly well. The cooking here has soul, in informal bistros and Michelin-starred restaurants alike. The most famous local specialties include black truffles, foie gras and walnuts, but as you’ll discover in the farmers markets, the region’s produce is generally superb. And don’t hesitate to pair your meals with excellent wines from Bergerac and Cahors, where winemakers nowadays produce bottlings of real character.

Le Bistro des Glycines

In between touring prehistoric caves and troglodytic castles, I recommend lunching at this contemporary restaurant on the outskirts of Les Eyzies, within walking distance of the National Museum of Prehistory. Rather than eating in the main restaurant, we opted for a delicious lunch in the bistro: rosy confit of foie gras with sweet and spicy cubes of apple gelée, and flaky (but underseasoned) cod with walnuts and carrots, accompanied by a minerally glass of Bergerac Sec.

Le Bistro des Glycines
4 Avenue de Laugerie, Les Eyzies. Tel. (33) 5-53-06-97-07