Costa Rica is a jewel of a country, and despite having a nearly $3 billion tourism industry, it remains a destination in which it’s easy to find spectacular tracts of unspoiled wilderness. The birding is exceptional, and for those who like a little adventure, there are myriad options.

Since I had kept mostly to the north on my previous visit, this time I turned south from San José. It didn’t take long to leave the city behind and enter an emerald landscape of forested ridges and low mountains. We had arrived in November, at the end of the wet season, which meant everything was still a vibrant green. The words “wet season” strike fear into the hearts of many, but an occasional rain shower in Costa Rica isn’t inconvenient. Rain makes the jungle look dramatic and mysterious. A hike in the rain — protected by a poncho and waterproof footwear — can be a surprisingly refreshing experience. And it feels rather cozy to sit on a covered terrace during an afternoon downpour.

Hacienda AltaGracia

We awoke to bright sunshine the morning we headed to Hacienda AltaGracia, one of Costa Rica’s newest luxury resorts. Although the distinguished Auberge Resorts company manages the property, it belongs to Alberto J. Esquivel, a Costa Rican horse enthusiast, who originally envisioned the 865-acre estate as a personal vacation retreat. It’s now a 50-room hotel, but it still feels private and exclusive, hidden on a remote mountainside overlooking the canton of Pérez Zeledón, near the small, untouristed city of San Isidro del General.