The Dão wine region is in the midst of a renaissance. New winemakers are creating some spectacularly elegant and complex wines, which are renewing the region’s sobriquet as “the Burgundy of Portugal.” Located in the province of Beira Alta, in an area defined by the Dão and Mondego rivers, the Dão is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in Portugal. Monks fleeing the Spanish Inquisition settled here during the 15th century and began planting vineyards, especially with the native Touriga Nacional grape but also with other varieties, including Alfrocheiro Preto, Bical, Encruzado and Tinta Roriz.

By the beginning of the 20th century, Dão wines were esteemed all over Portugal, as well as in Brazil, Britain and other countries. The region entered a long period of decline, however, after the regime of dictator António de Oliveira Salazar ordered grape growers to sell their crops to cooperatives, which produced a high volume of low-quality wine. After Portugal became a democracy again in 1974, the cooperative mandate was abolished. This was the beginning of a new emphasis on high-quality wines in the Dão. In 1990, the region became a Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) appellation. Although it is known as a red-wine region, the Dão has recently been producing crisp and fragrant white wines with the Encruzado grape. And sparkling Dão wines resemble Spanish Cavas in style. Wine tourism is not as developed in the Dão as it is in the Douro Valley, but more and more quintas, or estates, are now set up to receive visitors. Be sure to check in advance to see if appointments are necessary for tours and tastings. Here are my favorite producers:

Quinta de Cabriz

Carregal do Sal