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Umbria may not enjoy the fame of neighboring Tuscany, but this landlocked region — the “green heart of Italy” — with its medieval hamlets, lush landscapes and excellent wineries, is a standout destination in its own right. I always love visiting the town of Norcia for its high-quality prosciutto and sausages, Orvieto for its dramatic setting and superb white wines, and Reschio for the sole reason of staying at its sumptuous castle resort.
That property has long been an outlier, however. Whereas Tuscany veritably glitters with glamorous hotels, Umbria has tended toward homier accommodations, and before this most recent trip, we recommended just three properties there. But I’m pleased to report that on my latest Umbrian ramble, my traveling companion and I discovered two new luxury hideaways to add to the list.
Midway between Florence and Rome is one of Umbria’s (and Italy’s) most majestic hill towns. Orvieto perches high on a plateau of volcanic rock, 1,000 feet above a verdant valley floor of vineyards and olive groves. Many travelers stop just long enough to visit its resplendent 14th-century cathedral, but this charming village offers much more, including a labyrinth of underground Etruscan-era tunnels and caves, excellent restaurants and sweeping views over the Umbrian countryside.