In Mexico, I always relish the chance to get out of the resort and find local restaurants worth writing about. In La Paz, that was easy, considering Baja Club’s location right on the Malecón, the city’s busy coastal road and boardwalk. I didn’t end up recommending the hotel, but the culinary scene in La Paz was a pleasant surprise — and a delightful prelude to my Sea of Cortez expedition with Uncruise. My travel companion and I tried everything from a low-key café to the city’s best restaurant. Of course, we found a great taco spot, too.

La Mentita

Because the restaurant at Baja Club had lackluster food and atrocious service, we breakfasted elsewhere. La Mentita, a few blocks from the hotel, lured us in with a menu of freshly made smoothies. I ordered a zesty blend of apple, spinach, cucumber, lemon and ginger. To counteract the health benefits of the green juice, I also ordered a feast. The chilaquiles — made with crunchy tortilla chips, smothered in green chile sauce and garnished with cilantro, avocado and crema — was the platonic ideal of the dish. I’m sure it can’t be topped. We also indulged in a plate of decadent chicken enchiladas as well as a sope (a thick fried masa tortilla) garnished with cochinita pibil, a Yucatecan slow-cooked pork specialty I was surprised to see on the menu. It was deliciously fatty and flavorful. Now that’s a breakfast.

» Go for the hearty chilaquiles and fresh juices.

La Mentita
Belisario Domínguez 115. Tel. (52) 624-355-3910.

Made

In the morning, this inviting spot goes by Paradiso and offers coffee and freshly baked pastries. At lunchtime, it transitions into Made, serving a short list of pizza and Italian starters until dinner, when the menu expands to include pastas and more complicated dishes. We initially visited Made while hunting for a place to have an aperitif on our first night. The funky vibe, with a record player and tattooed waiters, seemed promising for cocktails. Our expertly mixed Negronis — and an envious peek at the spread the table next to us ordered — made us decide to return for lunch the next day. Seated in the narrow courtyard, we shared a Neapolitan-style pizza with a fluffy crust that had the perfect amount of char. To accompany our pie, we ordered a salad, lightly dressed in garlic-and-ginger vinaigrette and topped with cherry tomatoes and grated Parmesan. I was skeptical about mixing a ginger dressing with cheese, but the zesty sweet-and-salty mix had us mopping up the dregs with our crusts. I wish we’d had time to return and try more of the menu.

» Go for the authentic Neapolitan pizzas and classic cocktails.

Made 
Calle Francisco I Madero 798. Tel. (52) 612-379-0611.

Nemi

La Paz is not known for fine dining, but Nemi is the exception. This restaurant, by chef Alejandro Villagómez, who previously worked at Pujol and El Celler de Can Roca, offers an elegant tasting menu at an accessible price point — our seven-course dinner cost less than $100 per person. Sometimes tasting menus push the envelope so much that the food turns out more “interesting” than delicious, but Nemi creates dishes that are both inventive and satisfying. Our meal started with a bite-size bluefin tuna tostada before moving on to a Jerusalem artichoke cream soup dotted with mint oil and topped with diced green apple. The highlight was the roasted striped bass, served on a bed of tumbada rice made with roasted tomato, onion, garlic, red pepper and seafood stock. We skipped the wine pairing and ordered a bottle of Bodegas Henri Lurton’s Le Chenin from the Valle de Guadalupe in northern Baja. The minerally white, with notes of apricot and honey, paired well with the seafood dishes. Eating an incredible meal in a restaurant as affordable as this one gives me a new perspective on the $500 tasting menus I’ve tried.

» Go for the informal fine dining and Mexican wines.

Nemi 
Calle Francisco I Madero 565. Tel. (52) 612-159-5502.

Mack-Fisher

On our last day in La Paz, we realized we hadn’t yet tried a Baja-style fish taco — or even seen one on a menu. Our Uncruise guide recommended heading to Mack-Fisher, an unassuming spot a few blocks from the Malecón. In a warehouselike space painted with under-the-sea-themed murals, Mack-Fisher offers an extensive seafood-focused menu. We skipped the tostadas and ceviches and went straight for the tacos. Each one, served on a corn or flour tortilla, came with two pieces of buttery and flaky battered fish. Our waiter brought a smorgasbord of toppings to the table: fresh pico de gallo, pickled onions and lightly dressed shredded cabbage; four different housemade salsas, including a roasted tomatillo salsa and a spicy salsa macha; bottles of condiments including chipotle mayonnaise; and a bowl of lime wedges. I spent a minute or two carefully dressing my tacos and about 15 seconds devouring them. They were perfect. Although this is a very casual spot, it offers table service, and the bar makes a great margarita.

» Go for the crispy fish tacos and excellent margaritas.

Mack-Fisher
Calle José María Morelos y Pavón 965. Tel. (52) 612-122-4140.