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The archipelago of New Zealand finds its way onto countless bucket lists, and it’s become a popular destination for expats. While debates rage over whether the North or South Island is better, I’m happy to visit either at any opportunity. The South Island has long drawn adventure-seekers — it is, after all, the place that popularized bungee jumping. Travelers come to experience the skiing, climbing, rafting, jet boating and fly-fishing.
But its extreme beauty is just as exhilarating. The South Island is home to eight of the country’s Great Walks, the beech forests and tussock grasslands of the Southern Alps and New Zealand’s largest national park, featuring dramatic fjords and waterfalls. Contrastingly manicured vineyards famously produce fine Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, among other justly acclaimed wines. The region’s luxury lodges provide exceedingly comfortable and scenic bases for exploring all the island has to offer. My traveling companion and I strung several together, beginning our journey in Southland and making our way north to Canterbury.
Southwest of Queenstown is Fiordland National Park, where travelers venture to explore the fjords of Milford and Doubtful sounds, see the glowworm caves, fish the trout-rich Waiau River and traverse Great Walks, like the 37-mile Kepler Track. Just outside the park, intimate Cabot Lodge sits atop Cathedral Peaks Station, a 2,000-acre working farm with uninterrupted views of mountains and Lake Manapouri. Husband-and-wife team Brad and Breidi Alexander run the lodge while also managing the extensive farm with Breidi’s parents, who have been its stewards for almost 50 years. In 1999, Frank and Anne Cabot, the world-renowned horticulturists from New York, stopped by unannounced after hearing of the beautiful gardens there. A partnership quickly formed, the farm was greatly expanded, and the Cabots built a residence on its highest peak, Freestone Hill. Today, that home is Cabot Lodge, the four-room retreat that Breidi and Brad have lovingly refurbished.