On especially dreary winter days, I daydream about some of my favorite beaches around the world. The hidden coves of Palawan, the sugar-soft atolls of the Maldives. But ever since I first visited Harbour Island as a child, the main beach there has loomed large in my imagination as one of the best in the world, with crystal-clear turquoise waves lapping at fine, blush-hued sand. This low-key isle just off the north end of Eleuthera is an ideal vacation destination, one that’s walkable and with just enough shopping and restaurants to keep things interesting. The only real downside is the expense.

Eleuthera itself, a long, narrow island east of Nassau, is as sleepy as it gets. Even in the time leading up to the busy December holidays, it barely seemed to have a pulse. But that’s entirely the point. Eleuthera is abundantly, deliciously, blissfully boring: the kind of place made for long strolls on the beach, rum punch cocktails and lazy afternoons spent lost in a good book.

Three newly renovated hotels provided an excellent reason to return to the Bahamas — but not for nearly long enough.

Coral Sands Inn & Cottages

Set along a postcard-perfect stretch of Harbour Island’s Pink Sand Beach, the 41-room Coral Sands has been around since the late 1960s. The resort reopened in 2025 after extensive renovations, with a delightfully kitschy design that leans heavily into seaside maximalism. The lobby and public areas are decorated with items that wouldn’t be out of place at your kooky aunt’s beach house — seashell-encrusted chandeliers, salmon-and-blue checkered flooring and tufted floral-print sofas — but somehow, it all feels fresh and stylish.

Our spacious Sea Cottage featured a canopy bed and a large bath with a pink claw-foot tub, a separate shower and a vanity with two shell-shaped sinks. The closet was small for two people, but the enormous chest of drawers in the bedroom provided plenty of storage space.

Sliding glass doors opened onto a private deck and small garden, from which we could walk straight down to the idyllic beach, with its azure water and soft sand tinted by crushed foraminifera. We spent as much time as possible by the ocean, quietly wondering why we would ever vacation anywhere else. The next day, stormy weather kept us mostly indoors, answering our question.

Editor Photos (slideshow below)

Though it was too windy for lunch at the Beach Bar, dinner at the Pink Mermaid was a delight. Just off the lobby in the main house, it’s one of the most glamorous dining destinations on the island. By 7 p.m., nearly every table was filled with women in sundresses and men in seersucker. The Italian menu had a few welcome Bahamian touches, such as truffle conch pizza and spiny lobster capellini. The conch-and-stone-crab tagliatelle — with shallots, tomatoes, garlic and thyme in a beer broth — was probably the best dish of the trip.

While evenings at the restaurant were a highlight, breakfasts left something to be desired. The menu skewed Mexican for some reason. The huevos rancheros were excellent, but the orange juice tasted like it came from a vending machine.

It’s clear that an enormous amount of care and attention has gone into nearly every aspect of the property. The team has fully committed to the theme; even the tennis and pickleball courts are pink and blue, like something out of a Wes Anderson film. The playful aesthetic walks a fine line between panache and parody, resulting in an indulgent and joyful escape.

The Cove Eleuthera

We reluctantly departed Harbour Island and made our way south down Eleuthera to The Cove, a 22-room Relais & Châteaux hotel that reopened after a renovation in 2023. The property is breathtaking, fronting not one but two calm coves of shell-strewn sand. Between them sits the restaurant, bar and heated infinity pool, while accommodations that range from suites to stand-alone villas are scattered along the shore.

Despite the spectacular setting, disappointment set in early. Our Beachfront Grand King room felt redecorated rather than truly refurbished. A persistent funk — probably from the air-conditioning unit — lingered in the space. The bath’s grout was dirty and crumbling in places, and every door was warped. The rickety screen doors were particularly frustrating, with gaps on either side that defeated their purpose.

Editor Photos (slideshow below)

Still, we found pleasurable moments. There is plenty to do here, from snorkeling and fishing excursions to tennis and yoga. One afternoon, I joined the hotel’s artist in residence for a sea-glass collage workshop. Another day, I indulged in a magnesium body wrap at the spa. Our last evening, at the outdoor bar along the bluff, a reggae band played as we sipped coconut-based cocktails and watched the sky turn fuchsia and violet. All of our meals were superb, and we never tired of the eclectic menu. Highlights included fried snapper with red curry at dinner, cracked conch at lunch and a sinfully delicious banana-bread French toast at breakfast.

Unfortunately, the service did not rise to the level of the cuisine. Dirty tables sat untouched at breakfast, and at one point, a waiter genuinely did not know what a Coca-Cola was (“Is that a kind of tea?”). A language barrier with some of the international staff added difficulty, and while everyone was polite, the experience lacked the ease and polish I expect at this price point.

The Cove has a jaw-dropping location, excellent food and engaging cultural and environmental programming. But high prices bring high expectations. At this resort’s current rates, the uneven service and maintenance issues make disappointment almost inevitable.

The Potlatch Club

With rather less reluctance, we continued down Eleuthera to the 11-room Potlatch Club. In the 1960s, this was the place to be. Movie stars, athletes and politicians treated it as a sunny home-away-from-home, and in 1969, Paul and Linda McCartney spent their honeymoon here. But by 2017, when the property was purchased by its current owners, the storied resort had fallen into ruin due to mismanagement and eventual abandonment.

After a complete rebuild, The Potlatch Club reopened in 2024. Years of restoration work are evident in the details. The property isn’t grand or flashy; instead, it embodies a casual elegance that borders on rustic. It feels less like a resort and more like the island home of a wealthy friend — one with excellent taste and no interest in showing off. In the Clubhouse, one of the few original buildings, the décor evokes a nostalgic glamour, with framed photos of celebrities who once visited. In the library, the original piano remains, its keys disfigured and yellowed with age.

Editor Photos (slideshow below)

Our Beachfront Cottage was compact but thoughtfully designed, with a living area anchored by a full-size couch, a king bed, a kitchenette and a simple shower-only bath.

A small army of gardeners maintains the immaculate grounds. One morning at breakfast, we watched in awe as a man climbed a palm tree, machete in hand, and expertly sliced away drooping fronds. Elsewhere, two pools, a few beachfront gazebos and palapas on the sand provided plenty of places to relax. As we rotated among ocean swims, dips in the pool and cocktails at the Sand Bar, we barely saw another guest. It felt as though we had the place to ourselves, even though the hotel was nearly full.

Breakfast and dinner are served at the Fig Tree, an airy, elegant restaurant offering Caribbean and European fusion dishes with mixed results. The blackened sea bass with risotto was outstanding and perfectly cooked, but the stodgy lobster ravioli disappointed. In general, the simpler local selections were best. Craft cocktails and mocktails were unimpeachable, however, as were the freshly baked breads and breakfast pastries.

Whether the Potlatch Club will regain its celebrity cachet remains to be seen, but stars or no stars, the revival is a success.