In the laid-back Brazilian beach town of Trancoso, the remoteness of the destination means that food is fresh, local and simply prepared. But don’t let the casual ambience fool you  — restaurants are pricey, reflecting the quality of the fare. Patrons may be dressed down, but you might be dining next to a barefoot billionaire.

Lunch at a beach club is an all-day affair. Be sure to make advance reservations and specify if you’d like loungers or a table and chairs, or both (some beach clubs provide towels, but bring your own just in case). All the high-end beach clubs in Trancoso have minimum spending requirements, which are generally easy to meet if you plan to have alcohol. I like to make a day of it by arriving in the late morning, eating around 2 p.m. and staying until the sun begins to fade. Both of our recommended properties in Trancoso have their own excellent beach clubs, which require neither minimums nor reservations for hotel guests.

For dinner, Trancoso’s best restaurants cluster around the Quadrado, a grassy plaza home to the whitewashed 16th-century church that’s an emblem of the town. Many of the shops and restaurants will take a midday break, but as soon as the sun sets and everyone leaves the beach, Trancoso comes back to life. If you’re traveling solo or as a couple, consider leaving a few nights unplanned to wander around and choose a restaurant based on what looks good. But if you’re with a group or visiting during the Christmas or Easter holiday periods, reservations are imperative.