I’ve had some of the best meals of my life in Mexico City. I won’t ever forget tasting the (then) 256-day mole at Pujol, the city’s first global restaurant sensation. Quintonil, focused on fresh local produce, soon became another must-visit (the zippy cactus ceviche with beet and orange was a memorable starter). Michelin finally arrived in 2024, drawing yet more attention to a long-thriving food scene that spans not only fine-dining restaurants but also tempting taquerias, cantinas and street stalls. In this profoundly international city, the cuisine reflects the diversity of its residents. Many chefs are committed to honoring Mexican foodways, but the most innovative restaurants blend those with international influences, pioneering a dynamic new chapter in the city’s culinary evolution.

Homare Cocina Tradicional Japonesa

» A slice of Tokyo on an unassuming Roma Norte corner

Camouflaged behind cowhide curtains, this intimate restaurant is a hidden gem in Roma Norte. Inside, just 12 seats surround a rough-hewn wooden bar beneath amber parchment pendant lights. The attentive staff guided us through the menu in detail, explaining the three omakase choices: Kotobuki, for experimental “haute cuisine”; Homare, recommended as the most varied and complete experience; and Sakura, the simplest and most traditional choice. (Ordering à la carte is also possible.) We opted for the namesake Homare menu and received numerous artful delicacies. The chefs led us on a journey of Japanese cooking techniques: yakimono, with broiled duck and tender wagyu; agemono, featuring tempura-fried lotus root and panko-crusted unagi; nimono brought us a slow-cooked abalone; and sunomono was represented by squid in vinegar. Each piece of sashimi was fresh from Japan. And for my less-than-adventurous companion, the chefs were happy to accommodate her palate with milder bites. Our only regret was not meeting the inimitable manager, Izumi, who can serve in seven languages and has a habit of serenading her guests.