Umbria often gets lumped in with Tuscany, but its prehistoric soils, varied elevations and complex microclimates set its wines apart. The region’s three key appellations — Montefalco, Torgiano and Orvieto — produce a range of styles, from bold reds to crisp whites. Montefalco is best known for its powerful Sagrantino, one of Italy’s most age-worthy varieties, thanks in part to its formidable tannins. Torgiano yields structured reds based on Sangiovese. And Orvieto excels in producing bright, textured whites rooted in traditions dating to the Etruscans. My traveling companion and I had great fun trying out several contrasting wineries.

Cantine Neri

This winery commands uninterrupted views of the Umbrian countryside and the medieval skyline of Orvieto from its perch just outside the little-known town of Bardano. The Neri family has owned the land since the 1950s but only began making its own wine in the mid-2000s. Today, the winery produces about 50,000 bottles annually, and Neri has earned a strong reputation for its whites. Visitors can tour the original 19th-century stone barn and descend into ancient Etruscan caves dug into the volcanic tufa, where the family ages many of its red wines in oak barrels. We spent a lazy afternoon on the panoramic terrace, sampling wines paired with coppa, mortadella and salami sourced from Cantine Neri’s nearby farm. Birds chirped in the olive trees, cats stretched in the sun, and the golden stone of Orvieto glowed in the late-afternoon light. We both loved the Vardano — a minerally Grechetto with notes of toasted hazelnut, peach and pear — which stood out for its subtle complexity and long finish.

Cantine Neri
Località Bardano 28, Orvieto. Tel. (39) 076-331-6196