Above: Marinated salmon and braised vegetables at Ogata in Paris

The Paris restaurant scene is changing rapidly. Many French haute cuisine chefs are looking for ways to make their Michelin two- or three-star restaurants more affordable and less formal in response to changing tastes and times. Two examples of such innovation are Stéphanie Le Quellec’s La Scène and Yannick Alléno’s new, mostly counter-service table, Pavyllon.

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Above: Marinated salmon and braised vegetables at Ogata in Paris