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Whenever I return to Burgundy, I’m faced with a delightful dilemma: which wineries to visit. The region boasts so many legendary names, plus at least as many vintners who are far less famous but no less skilled. Of course, I always want to do it all, and my curiosity inevitably outpaces my calendar. This time, I threw up my hands and asked the Travel Office to figure out something fantastic for me. There is real luxury in not deciding.
My trust paid off. Over eight hours, a genial driver-guide named Thomas took us through the Burgundian countryside in a premium Mercedes-Benz to three private tastings. A natural storyteller with deep knowledge of the region, Thomas could discuss the subtleties of the Golden Triangle’s exceptional whites just as easily as he could discuss the latest on Rudy Kurniawan, the wine world’s most notorious counterfeiter.
Our first stop wasn’t for a tasting, but it was most promising: the iconic stone entrance of Chevalier-Montrachet, one of the world’s most prestigious white wine vineyards. By the day’s end, after visiting two wineries and a collector’s private cellar, we’d sampled more than 20 bottlings — including eight grands crus and eight premier crus — an indulgent number Thomas paced expertly, pairing some of the pours with cheese and fruit. Highlights included an earthy, leathery Corton “Les Maréchaudes” grand cru and a silky, expressive Meursault “Les Charmes” premier cru. Many vintners consider 2022 a “blockbuster” vintage, thanks to one of the hottest and driest years in Burgundy on record, and a 2022 Domaine Daniel Rion & Fils Échezeaux grand cru that burst with dark cherries, fresh blackberries and vibrant acidity gave me no reason to question that claim. (Note that the wines and tasting venues vary depending on availability.)
For lunch, Thomas pointed us to an excellent insider address in the small town of Fixin, one not found in any guidebook. There, we paired poached eggs in morel cream sauce with a Fixin premier cru, a decadent combination. After stopping at one more winery, where we tasted an exceptional Bonnes-Mares grand cru among other fine selections, Thomas returned us to our hotel with a sachet of delectable local chocolates.
I’ve been fortunate enough to go on several tasting excursions in the Côte d’Or, where it’s frankly hard to go wrong. But I haven’t had a day out in Burgundy like this one. I’m not a fan of giving up control of my itinerary to others, but these sorts of tours, which prove both easy to arrange and extraordinary in their execution, are persuading me to try it more often.