Even in August, when locals have fled and many restaurants are shuttered; even when religious pilgrims flood the cobblestone streets for Catholic events; even when Rome is at its most trying, this city — embodying the glory and ruin of more than two millennia — is still magical. It’s  literally a cinematic setting for a trip: In classic films like Roman Holiday, La Dolce Vita and The Talented Mr. Ripley, the Italian capital itself takes a starring role. A lifetime wouldn’t be enough to discover the Eternal City’s secrets, but even just a few days suffice to experience the romance of the place.

While I never need a specific reason to return, a spate of new hotel openings in former palazzos gave me a convenient excuse to spend a week here, eating a sinful amount of spaghetti carbonara in between visits to lesser-known museums.

Rome itself was a great success as always, but this time, the hotels proved to be hit and miss, ranging from dazzling to dismal.