Recent luxury hotel openings get most of the spotlight in the Hideaway Report, but it’s also our happy duty to check on properties that we’ve endorsed for years. In western Ireland, Ashford Castle and Sheen Falls Lodge have been recommended for decades. The former, a 13th-century fortification with rambling later additions, stands on a lake about 45 minutes north of Galway. We continue to get good reports from members about Ashford Castle, but we haven’t seen it ourselves since 2017, following a major renovation. A re-review of Sheen Falls Lodge, set farther south, near the Ring of Kerry, was similarly overdue, especially considering that new owners took over in 2018.

Ashford Castle

An evergreen-lined road from the front gate winds through the golf course before dramatically revealing the impressive 83-room castle and lake. After we drove over the drawbridge, a formal but friendly doorman greeted us and whisked away our luggage. Although several other guests were ahead of us, more staff appeared right on cue, including one with welcome drinks. We received a quick tour, completed the check-in formalities and headed to the suite to which we had been upgraded (the rate the Travel Office booked included an upgrade on arrival if available).

Our spacious Suite with views over Lough Corrib had teal silk walls adorned with embroidered flowers and antique paintings. A remote control operated the heavy curtains. The cushions on the couch looked a bit saggy, but the king bed in the next room was wonderfully comfortable, and the large marble bath with a double vanity and heated floors gleamed. Although the shower-tub combo didn’t dazzle, our second full bath made it feel churlish to complain.