The misleadingly named Île-de-France is not an island at all, but the heart of the country. At its heart lies Paris, encircled by a wreath of river valleys, woodlands and farmland. Kings once rode out from the French capital into the forests here to hunt, leaving an extravagant château or two in their wakes. Painters followed, attracted to the light and water, and today, the region still draws Parisians looking for an easy escape. I love to visit the edges of Île-de-France to relax after running around the city, but a stop in this verdant ring can also make a memorable start or finish to a larger French itinerary, since its grand hotels are in easy reach of both Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports. On my recent orbit around Paris, I discovered three notable hostelries within a 90-minute drive from the Eiffel Tower: a regal retreat near an opulent château, a grand manor incorporating a former Cistercian abbey and an award-winning garden estate.

Auberge du Jeu de Paume

On the doorstep of Île-de-France, Chantilly claims Europe’s largest racehorse training center, and at its heart is the picture-perfect Château de Chantilly, with domed towers mirrored in glassy reflecting pools. The last time I visited the town was 2005, when American-bred filly Divine Proportions won the Prix de Diane. Because the local hotels were not prix-worthy, we headed back to Paris after a celebratory feast. Since then, the 92-room Auberge du Jeu de Paume has made Chantilly an overnight destination. Just 35 minutes from Charles de Gaulle Airport, it was the obvious place to start our Île-de-France itinerary.

Ideally situated just down the street from the renowned Grand Stables and less than a 10-minute walk to the château itself, the Jeu de Paume immediately impressed us. An immaculately dressed bellman stood at the ready before the hotel’s cream-colored neoclassical façade. Inside the gracious lobby were gray-floral Louis XV-style armchairs, gold damask valances on the windows and an antique carousel horse, as well as smiling faces at the front desk.