Above: Beach excursion, Aqua Lares

A Seychelles Superyacht

We’ve all become accustomed to travel photography that oversells a destination, but in the case of the Seychelles, pictures hardly do it justice. I’d been waiting to return to this remarkable set of islands in the Indian Ocean until after certain luxury resorts had opened, but when I had the opportunity to cruise with the new Aqua Lares, I hopped on a plane posthaste. After my sensational cruise aboard Aqua Expeditions’ yacht in the Galápagos, the Aqua Mare, I knew I couldn’t pass up this chance.

Kayaking in the Seychelles, excursion from Aqua LaresAnthony K Do

The 253-foot-long Aqua Lares launched in February with itineraries between the Tanzanian island of Zanzibar and the Seychelles, plus shorter sailings that focus just on the latter. I decided that a longer, 10-night trip from Stone Town to Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles, would give me the best opportunity to properly review the 15-cabin ship. It can be chartered, but it’s also possible to reserve a single suite, giving you the experience of a high-end private yacht without having to book the whole thing. On our cruise, we had a total of just 28 passengers served by a friendly young international staff of 30.

My companion wondered about our fellow guests on such a small ship. I was optimistic. In my experience, Aqua Expeditions travelers tend to be worldly and accomplished people who are charming company. Indeed, at our first dinner, the conversation around the table flowed as easily as it would at any good house party. Consulting chef Karime López, who led Gucci Osteria in Florence to a Michelin star, drew up the cosmopolitan menus. The delicious cuisine ranged from the luxurious, like lobster tagliatelle with caviar and Zanzibar-spiced rib-eye, to the winningly casual, as in the make-your-own poke bowls from a wide selection of tempting toppings.

Category III cabin, Aqua Lares
Shaded dining area, Aqua LaresStevie Mann
Theater, Aqua Lares
Scallop appetizer, Aqua LaresYvonne Kreuzmayr
Heli Deck seating, Aqua Lares


Birgit Galli Zugaro, the wife of Aqua Expeditions founder Francesco, created the Aqua Lares’ invitingly tactile décor in conjunction with Milan design firm Hot Lab. It has an Italian-inflected seaside chic defined by oatmeal upholstery and buttery caramel-colored leather, along with collector-quality maps and illustrations from the Argosy Book Store in New York City. It all induced a solid sense of well-being, a feeling also evoked by our 300-square-foot cabin, a Category III accommodation on the Upper Deck.

I immediately liked our teak built-ins and thick, sand-colored Axminster carpet. Made up with Italian linens, the king bed occupied a wooden platform ingeniously designed to remain as level as possible during rough seas. It was exceptionally comfortable and offered ample storage space beneath. That and the additional storage in the dressing room allowed us to unpack completely. The limestone-paneled bath came with a walk-in rainfall shower and appealing Bamford toiletries. The largest cabins are the three Owner’s Suites, which range from 420 to 710 square feet.

The Main Deck’s public spaces include the saloon, with a custom-made bird’s-eye maple dining table where meals are served communally (banquette tables for two and four are also available), and a shaded outdoor dining area next to a large hot tub and a swimming platform. One deck above are the indoor and outdoor lounges, where cocktails are served during the daily briefing before dinner. Yet farther up, guests can catch some rays on the Heli Deck and the Sun Deck. On the lowest guest level is a compact spa with a sauna and an indoor Jacuzzi.

Giant tortoise, Seychelles – Getty Images
Powderblue surgeonfish we spotted on a snorkeling excursion – Andrew Harper editor

In the Seychelles in particular, the snorkeling and diving excursions were sensational. The waters off these islands have some of the richest and most varied marine life in the world. Our expedition in the Astove Atoll stands out: a thrilling experience of swimming with magnificent multicolored fish that was like being inside a giant aquarium. Back on dry land, at the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Aldabra Atoll, we had the pleasure of observing giant tortoises as they scuffled through fallen palm fronds in the dappled shade. Enhancing the experience of these extraordinary destinations were lectures delivered by the enthusiastic and knowledgeable naturalists aboard, though I wish we’d also had a talk or two focusing on culture and history.

These Seychelles cruises concentrate on snorkeling and diving, and several spouses on board were not avid fans of either activity. But they happily spent their days reading, swimming, getting spa treatments or doing absolutely nothing beyond staring out at the Indian Ocean. Doing nothing is underrated: We had one of the most blissful beach days of our lives on a tiny palm-fringed desert island encircled by white sands and a pristine turquoise sea. The crew had gone ahead of us and put up red-silk bamboo-framed umbrellas, chairs and a bar, the stage set for a languid afternoon of swimming, sipping and napping.

After a companionable 11 days together, we felt melancholy when the Aqua Lares anchored off Victoria. The substantial consolation for the end of this brilliant cruise, however, was knowing that I’d soon be back to the Seychelles to pay incognito visits to its newest luxury resorts.

CRUISE AT A GLANCE

Aqua Expedition’s Aqua Lares

LIKE

The excellent guides; the delicious food; the comfortable cabins; the memorable excursions.

Dislike

Beer, soft drinks and (often mediocre) wines are included in the cruise fare, but cocktails and spirits are not.

Good to Know

When Aqua Lares finishes its winter season in the Indian Ocean, it moves to the Arctic. Dinner is served early, and most people are in bed by 10 p.m.

Room to Book: Owner’s Suite 303 is the largest and most impressive cabin.

Rates: From $9,730 per person (double occupancy) for a five-night cruise.

View Aqua Expeditions Cruises listing

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Above: Beach excursion, Aqua Lares
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