Cabo San Lucas is perhaps the least pleasant place in all of Baja. The city comprises chain restaurants and tacky nightclubs, as well as the occasional person proffering marijuana. That said, Cabo San Lucas is worth visiting for one evening during your stay, in order to enjoy a sunset cruise and a surprisingly romantic dinner.

There is no shortage of sunset cruise options, but the best option I’ve found is the Tropicat catamaran, which usually takes 60 to 75 passengers. Unlimited alcohol was included in the $75 ticket price, but few people were there to overindulge. We met another couple staying at Esperanza onboard, and the cruise itself was lovely, encompassing close-up views of both sides of the famous Los Arcos rock formations. Nevertheless, I wished we had splurged and chartered a private boat.

Our concierge recommended dinner in town, a prospect that didn’t fill me with anticipation. But Restaurante Los Tres Gallos, a couple of blocks off the main strip, proved to be both authentic and romantic. We dined in a courtyard illuminated by candles and strings of Edison bulbs draped among the branches of mature mesquite trees. A quartet of musicians (not in costume) moved from table to table, alternating between lively folk tunes and soulful ballads. My tlacoyos — house-made tortilla pockets stuffed with savory chicharrón and topped with cactus, fresh cheese and pickled onion — were eye-rollingly delicious. I also enjoyed my fresh sea bass crusted in almond and pumpkin seed, served with a sweet white-wine sauce on a bed of arugula. And my sweet-sour tamarind margarita was among the best cocktails I had in Baja.