Many travelers come to New Orleans to absorb its atmosphere of decaying grandeur. The French Quarter, a unique amalgam of old European and Caribbean architecture, still feels transported from centuries past. Gas lamps flicker alongside many doorways, making a nighttime walk in the quieter corners feel like time travel. The historic center boasts a high concentration of classic dining and jazz venues — in addition to the bars of notoriously raucous Bourbon Street — but many of the most exciting new businesses to open are elsewhere. We increasingly spend time in the Warehouse and Garden districts, as well as Faubourg Marigny.

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