The island of Capri has been casting its spell on visitors for at least 2,000 years. The Emperor Tiberius was so taken with its charms that, from A.D. 27 to 37, he ran the Roman Empire from his villa here. Writers, artists, aristocrats and tycoons have been following in his footsteps ever since. The city of Capri has two harbors: Marina Piccola and Marina Grande, the main port where the hydrofoils from Naples arrive. The separate commune of Anacapri is located high in the hills to the west (take the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro). Capri’s most famous attraction is the Blue Grotto, a sea cave in which sunlight, shining through an underwater cavity, creates a mysterious radiance. At Da Paolino, waiters wearing vests embroidered with lemons weave among the candlelit tables.