Despite the influx of mass tourism, Bruges is still worth visiting, especially in the evening after the day-trippers have departed. This well-preserved medieval city of gabled brick houses, magnificent churches and café-lined squares is ideal for strolling or cycling; tour boats also cruise the city’s network of picturesque canals. The two traditional local crafts are handmade lace and luxury chocolates, but the former is increasingly difficult to find. One of the triumphs of the local cuisine is frites (french fries) — thick and twice-fried. Although we would not recommend any of the touristy restaurants near the city’s central Markt, you will find excellent frites at one of the frietkoten (frites vans) on the Markt’s perimeter. There are also numerous superb art galleries, including the Groeninge Museum, notable for Flemish primitive paintings, and BRUSK, a space for contemporary exhibitions.

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