I first encountered Colombia’s 949-mile-long Magdalena River in Gabriel García Márquez’s classic novel Love in the Time of Cholera, which ends with two lovers on a riverboat. There’s something romantic about following in the footsteps of memorable fictional characters, and so it sparked my interest when AmaWaterways launched the AmaMagdalena in 2025. Six months later, the company followed up with the 32-cabin AmaMelodia, an almost identical vessel. I cleared my schedule and joined it for a seven-night itinerary from the coastal city of Barranquilla to the colonial village of Mompox and back up to Cartagena, the jewel of the Caribbean coast.

The Magdalena River is not the Amazon. In fact, it is unlike any body of water I’ve cruised before. According to our guides, nearly 80 percent of Colombia’s population, including the city of Bogotá, lives within the Magdalena River basin. Much of its appeal lies not in monumental landmarks or stunning scenery but in ordinary life unfolding along its banks: a herd of buffalo munching water hyacinth, fishermen casting handmade nets from weathered boats, kids jumping from the limbs of a tree. Our guides spoke eloquently about how the rhythms of the Magdalena shaped Colombian literature, cumbia music and vallenato ballads — including those of the blind composer Leandro Díaz, whose vivid descriptions of landscapes he had never seen remain legendary.

On land, we discovered tiny, untouristed villages and enchanting Mompox, which quickly became the highlight of the trip. Founded in the 16th century and remarkably well preserved, the town seems suspended in time. We toured an aristocratic mansion turned museum and a silver workshop before spending the evening strolling the malecón, catching an impromptu dance performance before having dinner at a casual riverside restaurant. Our young waiter had never met any Americans before.

Other activities ranged from fishing demonstrations to concerts. Sometimes cultural excursions can feel forced or downright uncomfortable, but AmaWaterways has done an impressive job cultivating partnerships along the river, creating a sustainable tourism model that seems to benefit everyone involved. Musicians, jewelry makers, birding guides and tuk-tuk drivers all played meaningful roles in the experiences. Everywhere we went, people seemed genuinely proud to share their stories and traditions.

Nowhere was that spirit more evident than in San Basilio de Palenque, widely regarded as the first town in the Americas founded by formerly enslaved Africans. Our visit included a music performance, a lesson in the local language, a stop at a cultural heritage museum and a meeting with a traditional healer.

The knowledgeable, humorous river guides who traveled with us throughout the cruise were outstanding, but the local guides were uneven. I returned from San Basilio de Palenque feeling quite moved, while passengers on a different tour described the visit as depressing. At another stop, I struggled to simply understand the guide.

But while I was charmed by the crew and many of the people we met along the way, the ship did not make a great first impression. Oddly, though the vessel had been christened only a few weeks earlier, it already showed an alarming amount of wear: windows streaked with greasy fingerprints, dust gathered on ledges and peeling wood laminate in several places. Accommodations are more functional than formal. Our cabin was compact, with a queen bed, a small desk and a tiny balcony. The bath was spare but large enough to move around in, and I appreciated the ample space in the wardrobe. Unfortunately, our room reeked of air freshener. When we opened the doors to our balcony to let in some air, the humidity created chaos, with condensation pouring down the walls. We kept the doors sealed for the rest of the trip.

But the privilege of this trip is not five-star accommodations. It’s the warm and friendly all-Colombian crew and the easy rhythm of life on board. While the ship sailed on the calm water, we sampled tropical fruits unavailable at home, attended lectures on Colombian history and listened to jazz combos. Sometimes we just lounged on the shady Luna Deck and took in the life of the river. We never made time to enjoy the deck’s petite plunge pool, but it proved to be quite popular with the other guests.

Tasty, satisfying meals were served in the dining room on the Cumbia Deck, offering a breakfast buffet, an à la carte lunch with a salad bar and a four-course dinner. One night, we enjoyed a surprisingly ambitious tasting menu under the stars. The few times we ate at restaurants in town, I wished we’d stayed on board instead.

The AmaMelodia may not be as plush as a European riverboat, but it does offer a priceless opportunity to visit a part of the world where tourism is still a novelty. By the time we approached Cartagena, I had the increasingly rare and precious feeling of being an explorer.

Note: This cruise was provided to our editor on a complimentary basis.