On the global stage, Colombian food tends to be either dismissed as bland or ignored entirely. Staples like hearty stews and fried plantains make it abroad, but the best of the country’s cuisine doesn’t always translate well, thanks to an astonishing pantry that includes Caribbean seafood, unique tropical fruits, native herbs and Andean vegetables (some 850 potato varieties grow here, for example). You’ll be hard-pressed to find fresh lulo, corozo or ulluco in the United States. Trying Colombian food in Colombia is reason enough to make the journey.

Across Medellín, Bogotá, Cartagena and Barranquilla, we found chefs drawing inspiration from Colombia’s extraordinary biodiversity and regional recipes while embracing techniques and flavors from around the world. The result is inventive, contemporary dishes that pay homage to tradition, served in venues ranging from hipster cafés to internationally acclaimed fine-dining spots. The following were the culinary highlights.

Barranquilla

Manuel

» Sophisticated Caribbean fare in an elegant dining room

On our way to board the AmaMelodia, we stopped by Manuel, a stylish restaurant hidden in a quiet residential neighborhood. Behind the nondescript doors, Manuel delivers one of Barranquilla’s most polished dining experiences. We started with the bright and flavorful tuna ceviche with pistachio, Parmesan and balsamic before moving on to a perfectly cooked snapper served over an irresistibly rich coconut risotto. We scooped up every last grain of rice. Though we were full, our waitress persuaded us to order the caramel mille-feuille for dessert. She was right: It turned out to be mind-blowingly good.

Manuel
Carrera 55 No. 74-125, El Prado. Tel. (57) 318-674-9575

Bogotá

Afluente Restaurante

» An ambitious tasting menu inspired by Colombia’s mountains

We had only a brief stopover in Bogotá, but we made time for this sensational restaurant dedicated to celebrating Colombia’s remarkable Andean páramo ecosystem, among others. Named after the tributaries that feed the country’s rivers, Afluente offers a thoughtful tasting menu built around native fruits, vegetables and herbs, many of which were entirely new to us. Before each course, our server presented the ingredients we were about to taste. Every dish was beautifully executed — best were the delicate Caribbean crab with citrus foam and an unforgettable duck soup. The dining room was surprisingly quiet during our visit, but the experience was exceptional.

Afluente Restaurante
Carrera 3a No. 57-35, Chapinero Alto. Tel. (57) 323-811-7763

Cartagena

Ahíto Bistro

» Elevated Caribbean comfort food in a relaxed atmosphere

We were disappointed to learn that chef Jaime Rodríguez’s Celele, one of Cartagena’s most famous restaurants, was closed for renovations during our visit. Luckily, its sister spot next door was open, and it proved to be ample consolation. The relaxed neighborhood eatery delivers traditional coastal comfort food in an inviting, unpretentious setting. We began with fragrant lamb kibbeh served alongside baba ghanoush (“from our Arabian Caribbean”) before enjoying Cartagena-style black beef, slow-cooked with panela and spices until it was tender enough to cut with a spoon. Served with coconut rice and sweet plantains, it was satisfying and full of flavor.

Ahíto Bistro
Carrera 10c No. 29-184, Getsemaní. Tel. (57) 310-853-1464

Medellín

Carmen

» Refined contemporary Colombian cuisine in a sleek setting

When I asked friends for Medellín dining recommendations, Carmen came up most frequently. The celebrated restaurant balances cosmopolitan polish with a relaxed atmosphere (we weren’t surprised to spot an A-list Hollywood celebrity at the next table). Our favorite bites from the short menu were the Caribbean langoustine in an aromatic turmeric-coconut curry topped with crisp puffed rice, and pasta filled with ponzu-roasted watermelon, custard apple, cashews and eggplant beurre blanc. The unconventional combination ended up tasting like deliciously jazzed-up pumpkin ravioli. Stop by the upstairs cocktail lounge before or after your meal. (On a previous trip, we also enjoyed Carmen’s second location in Cartagena.)

Carmen
Carrera 36 No. 10a-27, El Poblado. Tel. (57) 316-625-4896

La Casa del Alimento

» Casually hip home cooking with global influences

Wanting to branch out from the area of El Poblado, we ventured into La Floresta, a quiet residential quarter. There, we stopped for lunch at homey La Casa del Alimento. The cozy setting suggested a much more traditional menu, but the young and creative chefs have created a cosmopolitan selection of delectable bites that included a fresh and complex curried vegetable salad, tempura shrimp in spicy-sweet gochujang and miso-cured pork belly glazed with barbecue sauce made from borojó, a tropical local fruit. A refreshing lime shrub mocktail with a salted rim provided all the satisfaction of a margarita.

La Casa del Alimento
Carrera 87 No. 45c-17, La Floresta. Tel. (57) 318-587-8459

Ocio

» Creative small plates in an industrial-chic hideaway

We nearly got lost trying to find Ocio, a fashionable space tucked in the hills of El Poblado. The search was well worth the effort. Inside, the casual dining room buzzed with stylish young locals, and we could watch the kitchen through a window on one side of the room. The menu combines Colombian ingredients with international flavors. Standout dishes included the melt-in-your-mouth roasted hearts of palm topped with beurre blanc and breadcrumbs, and a sweet-and-sour green-mango salad tossed with tamarind dressing, peanuts, red onion and cilantro, which had a spicy kick.

Ocio
Transversal 7a No. 30-224, Casa 130, El Poblado. Tel. (57) 318-240-2859