Many people, when they think of Montréal, imagine an easier-to-reach Paris. Some neighborhoods, notably Old Montréal (founded in the 17th century), feel undeniably European, as does the enviable food scene. The personality of this French-Canadian city is quite informal, however. “Montréal strikes the right balance of control and chaos,” as one of my guides put it. It’s my kind of town: a beautiful place that welcomes visitors but remains very much itself.

I’m happy to report that I found new hotels to recommend here — and at a refreshingly reasonable price point — but true luxury hideaways remain inexplicably elusive.

Hotel Birks

I immediately liked the look of the 132-room Hotel Birks, which occupies a striking neo-Renaissance landmark building in a prominent and central location on Phillips Square. The 19th-century businessman Henry Birks headquartered his jewelry firm here, and its flagship store occupies much of the ground level to this day. The hotel entrance is next door to the shop, leading to a columned hall embellished by ornate plasterwork and large crystal chandeliers.