For many, the words “Montréal restaurant” conjure images of candlelit, stone-walled dining rooms with menus of old classics (plus perhaps poutine). Certainly such places exist, and happily so, but Québec’s largest city will also please those who appreciate more-contemporary culinary experiences. We had notably few disappointments during our week in town; indeed, I wish that I’d scheduled a longer stay, for the sole reason of trying more restaurants! To narrow the choices, I hewed mostly to newer venues.

Le Boulevardier

» Big flavors amid midcentury style

I made an exception to my “new restaurants” policy to dine in our hotels, and I’m glad I did. Le Germain Montréal’s midcentury-modern-style brasserie is the property’s best feature. Our good-humored waitress also proved highly professional, and every course at dinner was a winner. A small appetizer of scallops, bacon cream, bacon brunoise and Parmesan was a big umami bomb. Al dente wild-mushroom ravioli with lemon ricotta had a surprisingly pretty presentation, and the venison fillet with herbed béarnaise, venison jus and leeks was a real indulgence. A dessert of chocolate-hazelnut cake with mushroom ice cream, mushroom crumble and boozy caramel sauce worked shockingly well.

Le Boulevardier
2050 Rue Mansfield. Tel. (514) 849-2050

Henri Brasserie Française

» Classic French cuisine in grand surroundings

This opulent dining room in the Hotel Birks is popular with a business-lunch crowd, but we had a very fun meal. Our waitress, Eve, had a wonderful sense of humor, and, after sitting at one of her tables for breakfast as well, I count her among my favorite servers of all time. The food, too, was excellent. A beet salad with goat cheese, candied nuts, orange and watercress won’t win any innovation awards, but the impeccable composition won me over. Likewise the well-rendered duck confit with sweet-sour cherry sauce, braised cabbage and fingerling potatoes, which was fantastic with a glass of fine Fixin.

Henri Brasserie Française
1238 Rue du Square-Phillips. Tel. (514) 370-3000

Celeste

» A new hot spot for contemporary Italian

Opened in late 2025, this Italian restaurant in easy walking distance of the Four Seasons provides a break from all the French in town. Its discreet entrance belies the large and bright interior, partially a conservatory and entirely festooned with globe pendant lights. The bread was fresh but awkwardly presented — the one miss. My short-rib-filled cappellacci was punchy and perfectly cooked, and the contrasting cod came golden and flaky, accompanied by an addictively buttery “clam carbonara” sauce. I intended to have just one bite of our slice of olive oil cake with pine nut ice cream, but, well, sometimes things just don’t work out.

Celeste
2121 Rue Drummond. Tel. (514) 382-3111

Dorsia

» A glamorous spot for gourmet French and Italian

On a charming block in Old Montréal, this chic contemporary spot is ideal for a date or an intimate dinner with friends. The beautifully presented cuisine mixes French and Italian influences, plus a few Spanish and Asian notes, and the lengthy wine-by-the-glass list included high-end selections like premier cru Burgundies. I started with the daily tuna preparation — impeccable chutoro with hazelnut tonnato sauce — followed by improbably light ricotta-stuffed agnolotti in a creamy nettle sauce with peas. But it was the Canadian grass-fed beef tenderloin with meaty maitake, bitter eggplant and sweet XO sauce that was most memorable, especially when paired with a darkly fruity Saint-Joseph.

Dorsia
396 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest. Tel. (514) 312-6500

Hiatus

» Superb French-Asian fusion with panoramic views

Another great option for a romantic night out is this French-Asian-fusion venue on the 46th floor of a skyscraper. Sitting down beside a wall of windows with a panoramic view of the city and sunset, we felt like celebrating. Glasses of Franciacorta, poured from a magnum, suited the mood. Scallop crudo with yuzu kosho and charred orange segments melted in the mouth, and tortellini-like dumplings filled with duck and foie gras were bites of heaven. Miso-glazed cod didn’t rise to Nobu standards, but the Ibérico pork with white asparagus, morels, wild garlic leaf and pesto was unimpeachable. Helpful service lived up to the setting.

Hiatus
1 Place Ville-Marie, Floor 46. Tel. (514) 532-0617

Marcus

» Fresh, reliable cuisine in a bright hotel dining room

The airy restaurant of the Four Seasons hotel is, like Henri at the Birks, popular with businesspeople. We had a delicious light lunch. My salad of ripe Québec heirloom tomatoes, watermelon cubes, local mozzarella and basil oil tasted fresh and bright, as did my companion’s starter of burrata with zucchini noodles, escabeche and sourdough crostini. The grilled Atlantic salmon with spinach, yuzu kosho and Broccolini seemed more steamed, but it had great flavor, especially when topped with orange zest grated tableside. I wouldn’t make a long detour to Marcus, but it’s a reliable choice with solid service if you’re nearby.

Marcus
1440 Rue de la Montagne. Tel. (514) 843-2525

Mon Lapin

» Montréal’s toughest reservation, and worth the effort

In the heart of Little Italy, this bistro and wine bar does require a bit of a detour, but it’s worth it — if you can secure a reservation. The Four Seasons concierge managed to snag us seats at the bar. Everything sounded so good that we opted for the tasting menu. All eight courses ended up being memorable. Among the standouts were razor clams with crunchy shallot bits and aromatic cilantro, and tender duck heart with local oyster mushrooms and rich guinea-fowl liver sauce. The sensational halibut cheek with creamed nettle unearthed a comforting childhood memory. Unaffected, engaging service and creative wine pairings further enhanced the dinner.

Mon Lapin
150 Rue Saint-Zotique Est. Tel. (514) 379-4550

Le Pois Penché

» Unfussy French food in upscale surroundings

A block from Four Seasons, this stalwart opened almost 20 years ago, but looking for a convenient lunch, we popped in. I hadn’t necessarily planned on reviewing this place, but its stylish décor, endearing service and menu of “French comfort food, Montréal style” proved delightful in all respects. My salade Niçoise with housemade tuna confit was a flawless version of the classic, and my companion’s humble-sounding veal schnitzel with coleslaw was utterly craveable, with a swoon-worthy red-wine sauce. Had time permitted, I would have loved to have settled in for a long lunch, culminating in espresso and a Paris-Brest.

Le Pois Penché 
1230 Boulevard de Maisonneuve Ouest. Tel. (514) 667-5050

Binchō

» Fusion fun in a casual neighborhood haunt

Asian fusion is a trend in Montréal, as evidenced by Hiatus, Chinese-French Chouchou and this Japanese-French bistro, opened in mid-2025 in Plateau-Mont-Royal. Seating is either on a small patio, at communal six-seat high tops or at the bar (our choice). Although the friendly service was perhaps too familiar, I can’t criticize the food. Monkfish easily goes wrong, but here, grilled over binchotan coals and garnished with mayo and bacon confit, it was superb. A huge portion of cucumber chunks dressed with soy, coriander and chile was refreshing and complex, and I relished the savory pork-stuffed squid with tahini and shishito peppers.

Binchō 
701 Avenue Mont-Royal Est. Tel. (514) 522-6799