It’s a common complaint that Roman restaurants close in August, but of course, that’s not entirely true. We ate exceedingly well despite our timing. Art and history aside, dining is one of Rome’s great pleasures, especially if you follow a few guidelines. On our most recent trip, we discovered an array of new favorites in the Eternal City, ranging from inventive and whimsical boundary pushers to tried-and-true classic trattorias.

All’Oro
» Deliciously unconventional renditions of Roman classics

Avant-garde restaurants in Rome are always a risk; too often, I find myself wishing I’d opted for a traditional spot instead. This time, the risk paid off. At this award-winning eatery by Riccardo Di Giacinto, our tasting menu started off well with an array of amuse-bouches — most notable was the “liquid panzanella,” with an umami-rich broth contained in a crispy hollow sphere, reminiscent of Indian pani puri. Next came the “tiramisu,” a heavenly concoction of whipped cream, potato, bacon and layers of flaky cod served in a coffee cup. The Carbonara Summary, one of Di Giacinto’s signature creations, reimagined the classic components (guanciale, Parmesan, egg) into a custardlike foam served in an eggshell. Pasta courses, including the mascarpone ravioli with duck ragout and red wine reduction, were impeccable. Among the mignardises, the torta della nonna was the most memorable: a delicate, crinkled parcel resembling a translucent dumpling, filled with pastry crumbles, vanilla custard and lemon. Overall, it was a divine experience that’s well worth the price.

All’Oro
Hotel The Haven, Via Giuseppe Pisanelli 25. Tel. (39) 069-799-6907