It’s a common complaint that Roman restaurants close in August, but of course, that’s not entirely true. We ate exceedingly well despite our timing. Art and history aside, dining is one of Rome’s great pleasures, especially if you follow a few guidelines. On our most recent trip, we discovered an array of new favorites in the Eternal City, ranging from inventive and whimsical boundary pushers to tried-and-true classic trattorias.

All’Oro
» Deliciously unconventional renditions of Roman classics

Avant-garde restaurants in Rome are always a risk; too often, I find myself wishing I’d opted for a traditional spot instead. This time, the risk paid off. At this award-winning eatery by Riccardo Di Giacinto, our tasting menu started off well with an array of amuse-bouches — most notable was the “liquid panzanella,” with an umami-rich broth contained in a crispy hollow sphere, reminiscent of Indian pani puri. Next came the “tiramisu,” a heavenly concoction of whipped cream, potato, bacon and layers of flaky cod served in a coffee cup. The Carbonara Summary, one of Di Giacinto’s signature creations, reimagined the classic components (guanciale, Parmesan, egg) into a custardlike foam served in an eggshell. Pasta courses, including the mascarpone ravioli with duck ragout and red wine reduction, were impeccable. Among the mignardises, the torta della nonna was the most memorable: a delicate, crinkled parcel resembling a translucent dumpling, filled with pastry crumbles, vanilla custard and lemon. Overall, it was a divine experience that’s well worth the price.

All’Oro
Hotel The Haven, Via Giuseppe Pisanelli 25. Tel. (39) 069-799-6907

Dalù
» Seafood and regional dishes in charming Trastevere

Following the recommendation of a longtime local, we headed to Trastevere one evening to try out one of her favorite trattorias. But word had gotten out, and the line for dinner stretched down the street. We passed it by, following our instincts until we spotted Dalù’s quiet and leafy patio down a side street. We got lucky, snagging a table without a reservation. The rest of the patio seats filled quickly after our arrival. In the mood for seafood, we started with paccheri with clams, the pasta cooked to a perfect firmness and the clams adding a briny decadence. We continued with the turbot, roasted with herbs and olive oil, and served alongside scalloped potatoes and blistered tomatoes. Paired with a bright Etna Bianco, it was an ideal dinner. The simple seafood preparations and the elegant setting exemplified the pleasure of classic Roman dining. I doubt that our original choice could have been any better.

Dalù 
Via della Gensola 58. Tel. (39) 06-3789-5459

Il Falchetto
» Italian specialities with contemporary polish

When I travel undercover, I sometimes like to test hotel concierges by asking for last-minute restaurant recommendations and reservations. While our stay at Palazzo Roma was disappointing, the concierge was a bright spot of the stay, recommending nearby Il Falchetto for lunch and swiftly securing us an outdoor table. Though the restaurant is in tourist central, between the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon, it’s hidden in plain sight, tucked on the corner of a street with little foot traffic. Inside, the dining room bustled with locals having business lunches, but our table on the covered terrace was peaceful and quiet. Service was attentive, and the food was simple yet elegant. To start, we had tender roasted artichokes, along with a refreshing shaved fennel and orange salad, the bitterness and acidity balanced by shaved Parmesan. Next came fusilli in pesto with fresh tomatoes and crumbled olives, followed by an ideal breaded veal cutlet: juicy, crispy and served with an indulgent side of fries.

Il Falchetto
Via di Montecatini 12. Tel. (39) 06-679-1160

Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro
» Authentic regional cooking with a cozy atmosphere

A local friend tipped us off to this centrally located restaurant with a caution: “It’s very popular with tourists, but they’re discerning Italian tourists who want to eat authentic Roman cooking without paying through the nose.” This recommendation proved to be a great address for a good-value prix fixe lunch. Our friendly waitress spoke perfect English, let us taste several wines before we settled on a bottle and was candid in her suggestions. “Have the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, because we got some beautiful fresh Pecorino Romano cheese this morning, and then the roast baby lamb, not the baccalà alla Romana, because it is just too heavy on such a hot day,” she said. And so we had an excellent meal, including an airy ricotta mousse with sour cherries for dessert. This osteria may be casual, but reservations are essential.

Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro
Piazza della Cancelleria 80. Tel. (39) 06-689-7080 

Pierluigi
» Posh local favorite with an outstanding seafood selection

My traveling companion visited this longtime favorite many years ago. and the effortlessly glamorous restaurant remains popular with well-heeled Romans; stylish couples and families packed the other tables under the awning, gathered to celebrate anniversaries or birthdays. It’s usual to start with oysters, caviar or one of the tartares, but we couldn’t resist the “tagliatelle” made from squid, served atop gazpacho and topped with crispy guanciale. The texture of the thinly sliced squid was similar to rice noodles, and the dish was irresistibly briny. For the main course, our waiter arrived with a selection of fresh fish. We chose a sea bream, which he (wisely) recommended be baked in a salt crust. The sommelier suggested a minerally Etna Bianco from Idda to pair with the dish, which turned out to be an ideal accompaniment. Dining at Pierluigi feels like a special occasion, and it’s priced accordingly. But it’s money well spent.

Pierluigi 
Piazza de’ Ricci 144. Tel. (39) 066-868-717

Il Ristorante Alain Ducasse Roma
» Modern tasting menu in an avant-garde setting

The famous French chef’s entry into Rome has caused quite a stir. He opened a restaurant in the boldly futuristic new Romeo Roma hotel, which was designed by the architectural firm of the late Zaha Hadid. Ducasse tapped Iacopo Iualè — they previously worked together at Michelin three-star Le Louis XV in Monaco and  Michelin two-star Le Meurice in Paris — to execute his vision of contemporary Italian cooking, complemented by formal service and an open kitchen. Italian cuisine often goes wobbly when people attempt to deconstruct or modernize much loved dishes, so we were curious to see how this young Turk would pull it off. Some dishes from our six-course tasting menu (à la carte is also available) were superb, including cooked and raw artichokes in an artichoke-leaf broth and lamb alla Romana with zucchini, mint and ricotta. Others, like grilled asparagus with seaweed sauce and dentex with green beans and green figs, were more peculiar than pleasing. Overall, it was an amusing experience if you also consider the architecture and décor of the brightly lit dining room, but I’m not racing to return. 

Il Ristorante Alain Ducasse Roma
Romeo Roma, Via di Ripetta 246. Tel. (39) 06-4554-5000

Trattoria da Danilo
» Traditional family-run eatery with famously good pasta

After a lackluster carbonara at Salumeria Roscioli, I turned to my Roman friend in exasperation. Her response was immediate: “Go to Danilo.” On a quiet street in Monti, this old-school trattoria is hardly a secret — signed celebrity photos line the wall — but during our visit, the dining room buzzed with Italian conversation. We started with the tender polpette simmered in Amatriciana sauce, the richness of the meatballs countered by the acidity of the tomato. Next came airy fried zucchini flowers, oozing with sweet-and-salty mozzarella. Perhaps we should have stopped there, but we were here on a pasta mission. The cacio e pepe was finished tableside, the waiter mixing the pasta in a Parmesan wheel atop a rolling cart. Theatrical, even gimmicky, but also delicious. And finally came the carbonara, perfectly emulsified and hitting exactly the right mix of creamy and savory, with a silky sauce and crunchy bits of guanciale. I was afraid to order carbonara for the rest of the trip, lest it mar the memory of this platonic ideal of the dish.

Trattoria da Danilo
Via Petrarca 13. Tel. (39) 067-720-0111

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