Pretty Cavtat has a bigger selection of tempting restaurants than one would expect for a town its size. They mostly line the waterfront promenade, facing yachts and the forested peninsula across the bay. It’s easy to have a stroll and find an inviting spot to settle in for a pizza or a glass of wine, so I sought out the best of the more upscale establishments.

Croatian food and wine have come a long way since the region’s socialist days; drinking and dining here are now as pleasurable as anywhere in Europe.

Bugenvila
» A small harborside patio and uneven cuisine

Vines of jasmine and (of course) bougainvillea filtered the light of the setting sun on the patio of this acclaimed contemporary restaurant. Our waiter served us with notable formality at first, but his charmingly dry sense of humor soon showed through. We started with oysters from nearby Mali Ston, paired with a Tomac Diplomat Brut Nature, a zesty Croatian sparkler with real depth. The oysters tasted like a blast of the Adriatic, although one came on the flat half of the shell, losing some of its liquor. I have only praise for the beautifully presented sea bream ceviche with kohlrabi, charred orange, red bell pepper and cilantro. Not so the touted octopus, which had sections of mushy skin and tough meat — the worst of both worlds. I wished I’d gone for the ox cheeks or lamb instead. I loved the ambience and the service here, but the food was hit-and-miss.