On the East Cape of Baja California, La Paz is the gateway to the natural riches of the Sea of Cortez. In this laid-back capital, desert landscapes meet turquoise bays, with tempting restaurants, markets and museums in between. For now, the seaside capital remains under the radar. The city of 250,000 welcomes just over 600,000 visitors annually — a fraction of the nearly 4 million who travel to Los Cabos each year. But it’s steadily gaining popularity with adventure travelers drawn to hidden beaches, waterfall hikes and the undersea treasures nearby. Here’s everything you need to know before planning your trip.

When to go: November through April offers comfortable weather and sunny days, though some may find that the water is too cold for swimming, even with a wet suit. The season for gray whale watching is January to March. August and September can bring heavy rains and the risk of hurricanes.

Choosing a hotel: For now, the best hotel in La Paz is Grupo Habitas’ Baja Club. Though the old colonial mansion and splashy new building are beautifully designed, the hotel didn’t merit a recommendation, thanks to substandard service and lackluster food. In 2028, Chablé plans to open a glamorous seaside resort just 10 minutes from downtown. (Read our review of Baja Club.)