I first came to Baja many years ago on a trip to Todos Santos, a laid-back beach town popular with surfers. Since then, I’ve visited this corner of Mexico countless times, reviewing some of our top-rated hotels in the country. Most of my forays focused on Los Cabos; previous attempts to discover recommendable hotels in Todos Santos and La Paz have failed. But there’s far more to this sun-drenched peninsula than cocktails by the infinity pool, and I was determined to find a hotel on the East Cape with easy access to the oasislike Sierra La Laguna Biosphere Reserve and the island of Espíritu Santo.

A sailing with Uncruise offered the perfect excuse to check in on the 1,500-acre Costa Palmas development — currently home to a Four Seasons Resort and soon to welcome Mexico’s first Aman — before heading north to La Paz, the low-key state capital where colonial history meets modern cool. Our hotel experiences were a study in contrasts.

Four Seasons at Costa Palmas

As my plane descended into Los Cabos airport, I spotted multiple new construction projects transforming the coastline of the East Cape from a sprinkling of remote desert outposts into a series of resorts. Most notable is Costa Palmas, an ambitious beachfront community complete with a private marina, a Robert Trent Jones II golf course and the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Los Cabos at Costa Palmas.

After an hourlong transfer from the airport, we arrived at the 141-room resort, set among cactus-studded dunes near the Sierra de la Laguna mountains. Opened in 2019, this Four Seasons is a graceful antidote to busy Los Cabos. The aesthetic leans toward modern Mexican minimalism, with warm wood accents, earth tones and stone structures that blend into the landscape.

From the open-air lobby where we checked in, a staff member took us on a golf-cart tour of the sprawling property and showed us to our Garden Room With Plunge Pool. Though the large ground-level lodging had only one window, it still felt airy and bright. My traveling companion especially loved the well-lit dressing room with a three-way mirror and plenty of space for our belongings. Outside, our private patio and plunge pool was an excellent spot to enjoy the complimentary margaritas and guacamole we received for booking through our Travel Office.

Editor Photos (slideshow below)

After unpacking, we hopped on beach-cruiser bikes to have a late lunch at El Puesto, a tiny open-air ceviche bar on the sand. It was the first of many excellent meals we enjoyed at (or near) the resort, including a romantic dinner under the stars at Limón, an Italian grill tucked into the property’s lemon grove, and delectable pizza and pasta across the marina at Mozza Baja, an outpost of the Los Angeles restaurant that’s accessible by free water taxi.

Temperatures during our stay were a bit too cool for sunbathing or swimming, so we retreated to the spa. I considered getting a massage, but changed my mind once I realized the price of an hourlong treatment. Instead, I spent a lazy afternoon cycling among the two thermal pools, the steam room, the sauna and the cold plunge.

While the Four Seasons itself is complete, the broader Costa Palmas development is a work in progress. Half-finished multimillion-dollar villas mar the otherwise pristine views, and we saw no activity at the neighboring Aman building site. We didn’t hear construction noise during our stay, but depending on which room you choose, this could be a factor. Be sure to consult your travel advisor before booking.

For those in Los Angeles or the Southwest, the quick flight and easy transfer could make Costa Palmas an attractive weekend getaway — a sort of Palm Springs by the sea. Otherwise, this resort is best paired with one of our recommendations in Los Cabos.

Baja Club

From Costa Palmas, our driver took us on a snaking mountain road to La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, situated on the Sea of Cortez. On the Malecón, a coastal road and boardwalk that spans the length of town, you’ll find Baja Club, by Grupo Habita, set in a former colonial estate.

The property is understated yet stylish. The original hacienda, home to reception and the restaurant, combines historic charm with timeless design. A newer building houses the 32 rooms and a rooftop bar. Between them lies a courtyard with a fountain, cozy lounge spaces and a small pool tucked discreetly into a corner.

Editor Photos (slideshow below)

We arrived early and headed straight to the modest spa, where I happily indulged in an excellent 90-minute deep-tissue massage that cost just $100. After my treatment, we were able to check into our Terrace Suite. True to its name, it had a spacious patio that, curiously, lacked any comfortable seating. The cement bench with a cushion didn’t exactly invite relaxation. Inside, I appreciated the cool, minimalist design, but the layout of our room was baffling. Our king bed with crisp white sheets was tucked in a tight nook, leaving no room for bedside tables. A massive television mounted on a nearby wall overwhelmed the space. The green zellij-tiled bath was beautiful, but we initially had trouble finding the commode, hidden in a separate room near the entrance that we’d originally mistaken for a closet.

At the beautiful pergola-shaded restaurant, the disappointments continued. Our clumsy waiter seemed brand-new to the job (and perhaps brand-new to the concept of restaurants). Throughout the meal, I had to ask for menus, water, napkins and silverware. When our food finally arrived after around 30 minutes, we received the wrong salad. Getting the check seemed so daunting that I just went inside and paid at the bar. Although we didn’t have alcohol, it was our second-most expensive meal in La Paz.

The hotel is unquestionably beautiful and in a prime location. With a few design tweaks (and a restaurant overhaul), I could imagine recommending it. But for now, it remains a frustrating waste of potential.