Inland from the yacht harbors and beaches, vineyards cover much of the rolling countryside around the town of Saint-Tropez. Sunny summers and moderating Mediterranean breezes help create ideal conditions for grape growing. Many wineries here focus on dry rosé, a classic beachside and poolside drink, but we discovered more than a few delicious whites and reds as well. My traveling companion and I took a break from lounging at our resorts to do some tastings, and our efforts were well rewarded. (Note that at many wineries, it’s best to make reservations for tours.)

Domaine de la Madrague

Right next to Château de Valmer, where we were staying, this winery has a casual, welcoming tasting room that we visited without making an appointment. The helpful Clémence staffed the counter, and she led us through several wine samples in excellent English. We tried two of the four rosés (named after the owner’s grandchildren), which were well balanced and focused.

But what I most remember are the other wines. The aroma of the white Claire blend veritably burst from the glass, and the Syrah-based Mas de Victoire was wonderfully light on its feet. Most surprising was the Paradise, a méthode traditionnelle sparkling rosé of Grenache and Cinsault. Its small bubbles, ripe fruit and note of toasted brioche made it taste like Champagne, yet it cost less than $15 a bottle.