The limestone bedrock beneath much of Belize is riddled with caves, which the ancient Maya regarded as portals to the underworld. They used some of them for important religious rituals, including human sacrifice. The most dramatic example of such a cave is Actun Tunichil Muknal (often abbreviated as ATM), the archaeological riches of which are accessible only by fording a river, swimming a stretch in the cave and doing a bit of light rock climbing.

Not feeling quite that adventurous, we opted for a more relaxing visit to Barton Creek Cave. Our guide paddled our canoe through the vine-draped cave mouth, and slowly its soaring ceiling, dripping with stalactites, came into view. We quietly glided deeper into the cave, reaching the “Maya Bridge.” Near this arch-shaped rock formation spanning the water, we could see carefully placed clay pots, and even a human skull partially embedded in the rock. In the silence of the cave, the presence of the ancient Maya felt eerily palpable.