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Alas, my recent spring foray along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast required making many painful omissions. In particular, I regretted skipping the Istrian peninsula, known for its wine and food, and the beautiful resort island of Hvar.
But the southern half of Dalmatia provided ample compensation. Wineries produce world-class bottlings, usually from character-rich indigenous grapes, and restaurants take full advantage of the bounty of the Adriatic, as well as excellent local produce and cheese. Old Venetian towns hug peninsulas and islands, their unspoiled centers filled with shops, wine bars and cafés.
Start in Split, home to some of the most impressive Roman ruins outside of Rome and a good base for day trips to visit wineries and Krka National Park. Then take a ferry to Korčula, an exquisite island of rugged limestone mountains, hill towns and more fine wineries. End the trip in Dubrovnik, with its gorgeously preserved walled center and magnificent surrounding countryside.
This itinerary closely follows the trip I took in April, when the weather is unpredictable but crowds are quite manageable. May, September and October are also good months to visit the region, but June, July and August should be avoided. Dubrovnik becomes insufferable during the summer because of the many large cruise ships now stopping there.